Sonora Pass, Pacific Crest

Leaving Tuolumne Meadows, the trail quickly takes me to the meeting point of Cold Canyon, Conness Creek, and the Tuolumne River. Crossing a bridge over the river, I feel the rush of cool mountain air as I head north, swinging west and wading across Return Creek. The water flows around my boots, adding a refreshing coolness that helps ease my exertion as I continue my journey.

As the trail weaves past several peaks and waterways, I can't help but be drawn to the deeply winding Matterhorn Creek. Its serpentine path through the landscape is mesmerising, carving out its place in the wilderness. The moment I leave the creek behind, the trail becomes less forgiving, climbing steadily toward the barren expanse of Benson Pass. My legs burn with the effort, but the reward is in the beauty that unfolds as I approach Smedberg Lake and Volunteer Peak. Though Volunteer Peak isn’t high, famous, or particularly challenging to climb, it’s renowned for its stunning views. 

Three miles (5km) further, I cross Piute Creek, which empties into Lake Benson a short distance away. With its broad, sandy beach, the lake stretches before me, its clear water mirroring the towering Piute Mountain above. I stopped for a bit to enjoy the stillness. The only sounds are the distant hum of nature—the whisper of the wind through the trees, the gentle lapping of water against the shore—a peaceful reward for the effort it took to get here.

Arriving at Wilma Lake, the trail joins Falls Creek, a long tributary of the Tuolumne River. For the next 8mi (13km), the creek is ever-present, sometimes drifting off before reappearing, guiding me through the landscape. The sound of the creek is soothing, and its rhythm helps carry me along.

As I pass Dorothy Lake Pass and follow the trail along Lake Harriet, vibrant wildflowers create a striking contrast against the rugged granite peaks. The trail arcs through Kennedy Canyon, eventually leading me into Stanislaus National Forest. The forest, established in 1897, is vast, with nearly 900,000 acres of pine, fir and old growth.

The final stretch takes me past Leavitt Peak and Leavitt Lake, each named for Hiram Leavitt, who once accommodated travellers crossing Sonora Pass. At 9,624ft (2,933m), it is the second-highest highway pass in the Sierra Nevada, linking the Sonora and Bridgeport communities. When gold and silver were discovered in the 1860s, both towns lobbied for a road to improve transport and trade, a goal realised in 1865. Yet its narrow, winding path remains a challenge even today, closing each winter under heavy snowfall.