Whitewater, Pacific Crest

Crossing Highway 79 from Warner Springs, I step onto the trail, feeling the familiar crunch of dirt and rock beneath my boots. The path winds and climbs steadily, leading me east of Coombs Peak. The thought of a short quarter-mile side trek to the summit tempts me, but I know it won't be easy—the loose rocks and steep grade demand attention. I press on, rewarded with sweeping views of the shimmering Salton Sea to the east, the calm expanse of Lake Henshaw to the southwest, and the towering silhouettes of San Jacinto and San Gorgonio to the north. The climb is worth every effort.

The trail meanders through rolling terrain, crossing a few dusty dirt roads before reaching Highway 74. To the west lies the Cahuilla Reservation, and to the east, the Santa Rosa Reservation—both home to the Cahuilla people. Passing through this land, I think about its history, the echoes of those who lived here long before my footsteps joined the trail. The town of Anza, just beyond, carries the name of Juan Bautista de Anza, the Spanish officer who once led expeditions into this rugged territory.

Beyond Highway 74, the trail begins its ascent onto the San Jacinto Mountain Range. The switchbacks come in quick succession, each turn revealing a new layer of the landscape. Pine Mountain Ridge rises to my right, its stubborn sandstone layers holding firm against time. The lower slopes are blanketed in chaparral, but as I climb higher, the air turns crisp, and the scent of pine and incense cedar fills my lungs. The steady exertion of the climb is softened by the beauty surrounding me.

Staying high along San Jacinto's ridgeline, I navigate the rugged terrain of the San Bernardino National Forest, passing peaks that soar beyond 7,000ft (2,100m), like Palm View Peak, Spitler Peak, Apache Peak, and the jagged Antsell Rock. When I finally reach Tahquitz Peak at nearly 8,800ft (2,680m), I pause, catching my breath and taking in the vast, untamed wilderness stretching below. The elevation is steadily gaining, and I can feel the air thinning the further up I hike, a subtle reminder that altitude sickness isn't uncommon here.

I descend through Saddle Junction and veer westward into Mount San Jacinto State Park. The towering peaks around me, some soaring over 10,000ft (3,048m), including San Jacinto, the tallest peak, are a wondrous sight. Encountering snowy conditions would not be unusual here, and being prepared with an ice axe, crampons, and snow travel skills would be essential. As I feel the crisp bite of the higher altitude, I am grateful that I don't need to deal with any snow and can move more freely through this rugged terrain.

One of the highlights ahead is the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, a marvel of engineering that whisks visitors from the desert floor to an alpine wonderland in just over 12 minutes. I stick to the trail, knowing my descent is near.

Reaching Fuller Ridge, the trail plunges downward in tight switchbacks into Snow Creek, a remote valley village. As I cross Interstate 10 into Whitewater, I imagine the weary travellers in the mid-19th century stopping here for a rest, much like I am now, before continuing their journey across the desert in search of fortune.