Carrión de los Condos, Camino Santiago

My next stop was Carrión de los Condos, a small town with a very long history. It was known as Santa María back in the 11th century, but its roots stretch even further to Roman times when it was called Lacóbriga. The town played a significant role in the Praetorian Wars of the 1st century BC. It was one of the Roman civil wars, when Julius Caesar and Pompey the Great’s supporters fought for control of Rome. Archaeologists have uncovered traces of the town's ancient past here, with remains including Roman mansions and villas dating to the 3rd and 4th centuries.

As I walked through town, I realised that there’s no shortage of churches and monasteries here, but two of them stood out. The first was the Church of Santiago, a solid old structure that has seen its fair share of fires, renovations and additions over the centuries. The architecture is a bit of a patchwork from the 12th century, but what caught my attention was the beautifully sculpted frieze above the doorway. Right in the centre, Christ is seated inside an almond-shaped frame called a mandorla, a classic Romanesque design. Around him are the symbols of the four Evangelists: a lion, an ox, an eagle and an angel. The rest of the frieze depicts scenes of the Last Judgment, featuring saints, apostles, and other biblical figures carved in intricate detail. It’s considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture in the region. 

Just outside town is the Monasterio de San Zoilo, a peaceful place that once hosted kings and counts. Originally built in the 11th century, it was expanded and renovated in the 16th century, blending Romanesque and Renaissance styles. I strolled through its impressive Plateresque cloister, where the intricate stonework resembles the delicate craftsmanship of a silversmith — all floral patterns, medallions, and fine details carved in stone. The ancient Romanesque capitals (the decorated tops of the columns) are still there too, alongside the later additions. Inside the church lie the tombs of the Counts of Carrión, a prominent medieval noble family, reflecting the monastery’s dual role as both a religious site and a noble resting place. In 1992, the monastery was converted into a luxury hotel, a change that helped preserve its architectural features while offering visitors the chance to experience centuries-old history alongside modern comforts.