Aberystwyth is a charming seaside town. Located on the shores of Cardigan Bay, its waterfront is lined with Victorian-era townhouses. As I explored the town and took a walk on the beach, I caught sight of the railway track ascending a hill at its northern end. Curious, I ventured toward it to discover it was a historic funicular built in the late 19th century for an easier hilltop journey. I hopped aboard and settled into it, waiting for its slow, rumbling ascent up the hill. A gorgeous view of the town awaited me at the top, with the nearby café tempting with delightful treats and a hot drink.
Returning to town, I strolled to its south side, where the ruins of Aberystwyth Castle stood. As one of the Ring of Iron castles built by Edward I, it was briefly held by Welsh leader Owain Glyndŵr. During Charles I's reign in the 17th century, it became a branch of the Royal Mint, producing silver coins sourced from local mines. Parliamentarian troops razed it during the English Civil War. While strolling the castle walls, I stumbled upon an unexpected treasure—a series of ten mosaics recounting the castle's history, including the remarkable discovery of a well-preserved skeleton in 1988. Its incredible condition perplexed scientists, considering the acidic nature of Welsh soil and its typical degradation of organic matter. The scientists could only hypothesise that the limestone used to build the castle helped preserve the skeleton. Today, it is displayed in the local museum.
However, a peculiar sight on the castle grounds was the arrangement of 13 stones forming a circle. Placed in 1915 during the Welsh National Eisteddfod, these stones represented the country's 13 counties at that time. The Eisteddfod is an annual cultural festival celebrating the Welsh language, literature, music, and the arts through competitions and performances. Gorsedd of Bards is at its centre, a group honouring individuals who have made important contributions to Welsh culture, language, and the arts.
My final stop was at the National Library of Wales, the country's repository for all publications related to the nation and its culture. It is the largest library in Wales, holding more than 6.5 million items. One of its founders, Sir John Williams, preferred the library to be in a more central and Welsh-speaking part of Wales as opposed to Cardiff, where the main institutions are located. Aberystwyth was chosen as the site for the library because it is accessible from anywhere in Wales and has a reputation as a university town with a strong academic atmosphere. The library is a hub for research, education, and preservation of all things Welsh.
My next destination is
New Quay, further south of Cardigan Bay.
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