Ankarana Special Reserve, Madagascar

The drive from Amber Mountain to Ankarana Special Reserve carried me from misty highland forest into drier, more open terrain. Though only about 62mi (100km) apart, the road made sure I felt every inch of it. Corrugated dirt, dust plumes, and the occasional zebu cart slowed my progress. The scenery shifted from lush greens to ochre earth and spiny trees, and soon, the strange, jagged silhouettes of limestone tsingy appeared on the horizon. 

The park has a fascinating geological story. Established in 1956, it sits atop the Ankarana Plateau, a vast Jurassic limestone plateau formed 150 million years ago when the area was submerged under a shallow sea. As time passed, tectonic plates pushed against each other, lifting the Earth’s crust. Add erosion from rain and wind, and the exposed limestone was sculpted into these razor-sharp pinnacles, known as “tsingy” (a Malagasy word meaning “where one cannot walk barefoot”).

But the real intrigue lies in how the plateau shifts from east to west. On the eastern side, where the moisture from the Indian Ocean occasionally creeps in, the landscape is more forgiving. Vegetation clings to the rocky outcrops and some trees find a foothold among the stone. In contrast, the western flank is drier and even more stark, dominated by exposed tsingy spires and parched scrubland. Underneath it all lies an intricate network of underground rivers and caves, comprising up to 62mi (100 km) of passages, many of which are still unexplored. 

I began my exploration on the eastern side of Ankarana because it was more accessible, and the trails were shorter than those in the west. Still, they were demanding as I scrambled over the rock slowly and carefully. The tsingys are sharp enough to slice through soles, so every foot placement mattered. In places where the chasms opened wide, suspension bridges spanned the gaps, and crossing them was no small feat. I gripped the cables tightly, each step timed with the bridge’s gentle sway. The drop beneath gave me heart palpitations. There was nothing but air between me and the canyon floor far below. This wasn’t a trail for the faint of heart.

At one of the viewpoints, I paused to take it all in. From this high perch, a sea of tsingys stretched across the landscape, their edges sharp and chaotic. Despite the inhospitable surface, life clung on. Tiny orchids bloomed from rock crevices, and squat succulents spread their roots in cracks where the smallest bit of soil had gathered. It was astonishing how much had adapted to grow here, in a place where even walking was a challenge.

While the subterranean system is home to at least 14 species of bats, above ground, it supports crowned lemurs, the Pearpoint leaf-tailed gecko, Nile crocodiles, and the Madagascar crested ibis. At least 330 botanical species are found in the park, including the baobab Adansonia madagascariensis, which is distinguished from other baobab species by its striking red flowers, and the succulent Euphorbia ankaranensis, characterised by its yellowish flowers and rough, thorny trunk. This species is endemic to the reserve and can be seen growing between crevices on the tsingy.

Much as I wish I could explore the western section with its sheer cliff face nicknamed the “Wall of Ankarana”, its difficult and lengthy trails would have to wait because the island of Nosy Be was calling my name. Time for a mocktail, long stretches of white sand, turquoise waters, and a shady hammock to lounge in.