Bob Marshall Wilderness, Continental Divide

The Bob Marshall Area, comprised of three large tracts of wilderness (the Great Bear, Bob Marshall, and Scapegoat Wildernesses), is a wild land that covers an area of over 1.5 million acres, making it larger than many small countries. 

The wilderness is named after Bob Marshall, an early wilderness conservationist. Marshall created the Wilderness Society in 1935 and pushed for the U.S. government to recognise untouched parts of the country as nationally protected wilderness areas, cutting them off from roads and development that might harm their natural beauty. Without people like Bob Marshall, hiking the CDT, which passes almost entirely through protected wilderness, would be functionally impossible. The Bob Marshall Wilderness is a testament to his work, being the largest roadless area in the contiguous United States. This vast isolation and lack of human touch mean that a great number of large mammals make their homes here, away from conflicts they might have with humans in more settled areas. In particular, the wilderness is a hotspot for grizzly bears. 

As I walked through a densely forested area, I heard a heavy rustling. I looked to my left and went cold. Lumbering through the woods was a grizzly, 7 ft (2 m) long, with dark brown fur and a hard ridge of muscle rippling on its back. I froze. It heard me. It looked up. I backed up slowly, telling it I was just a hiker, that I meant it no harm. It stared at me for a moment, snorted, and then turned and ambled away. I leant against a tree, my heart pounding, the relief making me feel both euphoric and nauseous.

Meeting grizzly bears is not uncommon on the CDT, and a wise hiker should be prepared. Always carry bear spray, and if you meet one, never turn your back and run, even if they charge, as it will trigger a chase instinct. Most bears have no interest in harming humans unless they have cubs or are protecting a valuable food source, but they are also large, dangerous predators from whom I would prefer to keep a healthy distance.

I felt grateful as I came out of the forest; at least now I could spot any grizzlies from a while away. I continued along, up the rocky slopes to the so-called Chinese Wall. This huge limestone escarpment, a great vertical cliff face, runs for 12 mi (19km) and towers over 1000 ft (300 m). Standing at its start, it is incredibly impressive, and as you follow the CDT, which runs along the top, you get the sense that you are hiking along the battlements of a wall built by a long-lost race of giants. I followed the trail until it descended the Wall and began the journey to the Benchmark Trailhead that will lead me to the Rocky Mountain Front.