Pembroke, Wales Coast Path

As I set foot in Pembroke, crossing the Northgate Street Bridge, I was struck by the thoughtful placement of picnic tables on the west side of the bridge, around the statue of King Henry VII, affording a stunning view of Pembroke Castle on the banks of Pembroke River. This medieval fortress, established in 1093 as a Norman motte-and-bailey castle, underwent a transformation under William Marshall. It was gifted to him by Richard the Lionheart, becoming a seat of power for the Earls of Pembroke and the birthplace of King Henry VII, founder of the Tudor dynasty.

William Marshall came from modest beginnings. Despite his noble lineage, William was the fourth son, decreasing his chance for an inheritance and leading him to find his own way. At eight, he was used as a hostage in a truce his father sought with the king. With his father breaching the truce, the king threatened to catapult William over the castle wall. Not wanting to follow through with his threat, the king imprisoned William for a few months. William began knightly training at 12, becoming a prosperous tournament champion with a reputation for chivalry and integrity. Marriage into nobility granted him the title of the 1st Earl of Pembroke. 

Faithfully serving five kings in his lifetime, William's last charge was that of nine-year-old Henry III. Swearing an oath to the dying king that Henry would succeed to the throne, William, now 70 and concerned about his age, made a final promise that regardless of circumstances, he would never abandon the would-be king, proceeding to rule as a temporary regent until his death.

Passing peacefully in his sleep at 75, William was inducted into the Knights Templar order. Regarded as the 'Greatest Knight of the Middle Ages', his biography was released shortly after his death – a pioneering work chronicling the life of a regular man in the language spoken by the general public, marking a departure from biographies focused on religious figures written in scholarly languages like Latin.

After William's death, the castle passed on through a line of inheritance for the next 250 years up to 1389, when 17-year-old John Hastings died in a jousting accident without an heir. The castle changed hands many times, and during the Civil War of the 17th century, it was severely damaged. Losing its strategic and military importance, the castle was left neglected and in disrepair until the early 20th century, when efforts were made to restore and preserve it as a historical site. 

I strolled down the main street and entered the local inn. Its dark forest-green façade was complemented by its rustic interior with copper pots and pans hanging from wooden beams and around a cozy open fireplace. Exuding a pleasant atmosphere, I poured over its menu. I was intrigued by the 'cockles, grilled bacon and penclawdd laverbread' as a starter. I'm told this mix of seafood (edible mollusks), smoky bacon, and the unusual flavour of laverbread (seaweed) reflect Wales' coastal heritage and traditional cuisine. I would happily follow this with a classic dish, the 'steak and Welsh ale pie'. This hearty dish consists of tender beef steak cooked in a savoury gravy infused with Welsh ale, a shortcrust base, and a flaky puff pastry top. Sounds good to me!!