St. Non's Cliffs, Wales Coast Path

Having left Fishguard, my hike led me along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, a Welsh National Trail that is part of the greater Wales Coast Path. This particular trail wove almost entirely through the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Britain's only coastal national park.

I followed the trail markers with the acorn symbol, the UK’s National Trails symbol, leading me along a narrow but well-kept path. The cliffs I passed were of volcanic origin. Some were tall and strong, while others were sharp and sheer. The hills I encountered were a bit challenging, adding some excitement to my hike. The landscape was a mix of rocks and volcanic stones, which in summer turns into a vibrant purple and yellow as the heather and gorse bloom. Parts of the landscape were shared with horses roaming around or cattle claiming their spots while sheep kept watch in the distance. 

The trail hugged the coastline, allowing me to admire the cliffs while keeping me safe. It was a fascinating interplay with nature, where the cliffs stood as a constant reminder of the sea's power, shaping the land over millions of years and continuing to do so over many more. With this ongoing shift, the trail must adapt, sometimes changing its original course.

I took a short detour at Strumble Head Lighthouse, a 1908 structure on Ynys Meicel, a small island connected to the mainland via footbridge. The lighthouse is quite elegant with its white cylindrical tower and mint green accents. The view from here toward the mainland was quite spectacular, with pastures and meadows stretching as far as my eyes could see. 

The path was peppered with high cliffs and rocky volcanic outcrops like Penberry, Carn Lleithyr, and Carn Llidi. These peaks along St David’s Head, a wild peninsula jutting out into the Irish Sea, were islands when the sea level was higher 70 million years ago. I searched for seals in rocky hideouts and hoped to catch a glimpse of porpoises hunting for fish. They often engaged in playful cat-and-mouse games with gannets, which tend to dive for fish just as porpoises herd the fish to the surface, ready to feast. Gannets, with their yellowish heads, black-tipped wings, and long beaks, are stunning birds closely related to boobies. 

As the ocean breeze ruffled my hair, I walked with a spring in my step, feeling the world around me. I absorbed every detail of the coastline. Lost in my thoughts and at one with nature, I eventually arrived at St Non’s Cliffs. Snapping out of my daydream, I noticed the ruins of St Non's Chapel, a medieval chapel dedicated to St Non, the mother of St David, the patron saint of Wales. Nearby, a holy well associated with St Non was believed to have healing properties. The town of St David’s, a short distance north from here, is known as the smallest city in Britain and the final resting place of the patron saint. I have heard it has a beautifully preserved 12th-century cathedral and over 200 listed buildings in an area of merely 18mi² (46km²). I think it warrants taking a slight detour and pausing for refreshments.