Leaving Caernarfon behind, I crossed the harbour bridge and set off on a path leading along the coast on a well-paved minor road toward the Trefor Sea Stacks. Menai Strait and the island of Anglesey stretched before me toward the narrow channel of Abermenai. On its south side, situated on the tip of Dinlle Peninsula, is the 18th-century Fort Belan. It is the only British fortress from the American Revolution, purposely built by Thomas Wynn, the region's Member of Parliament who was concerned about attacks on the British coastline. The channel it guarded was a mere 115ft (35m) wide; however, the fort never saw any serious action, and the Wynn family later turned it into private property. Today, it's an accommodation complex where guests must be mindful of the incoming tide as the property gets cut off from the mainland twice daily.
As I continued along the coastal path, I came across St Baglan's church standing alone in a large field, bound by a low stone fence, towering trees to one side and a small time-scarred cemetery. The aged interior illustrated the social life in the 18th century with modest timber pews at the rear and the grander box pews reserved for the wealthy villagers. An oddity among the weathered gravestones was the modern headstone for the 1st Earl of Snowdon, dated 1930-2017. Piquing my curiousity, I was surprised to discover that he was a renowned photographer and filmmaker who campaigned tirelessly for disabled people and was once married to Princess Margaret, Queen Elizabeth II's younger sister.
My path led me to Dinas Dinlle, where I ascended to the hilltop to take in the view that lay ahead. The next stretch of the journey was less than captivating, navigating a narrow road that occasionally grew busy with traffic, which became even more mundane when I turned onto the A499 and followed the cycle path to Clynnog Fawr.
The old pub at Clynnog Fawr has long gone, but I welcomed a brief rest at the café in this small village. The town's main feature was the Eglwys Beuno Sant, a church dedicated to Saint Bueno, who on this site established a Celtic monastery in the early 7th century. Bueno is said to have descended from the Royal Princes of Powys. They were Welsh nobles ruling Powys' central and eastern territories in present-day Wales. The monastery was destroyed by Vikings and then again by the Normans. The current church is a major stopping point for the North Wales Pilgrimage Way, which merges temporarily with the Wales Coastal Path.
My journey finally turned off the A499, and I returned to quiet country roads. Nearing a small gate, I crossed a small wooden bridge and walked near the coast's edge but not too close since there was no fence for protection, and the drop was straight into the ocean. Before long, the Trefor Sea Stacks came into view. Three stacks of different heights and shapes rose above the surprisingly calm, clear water. There was no wind this time, unusual for the coast, allowing me to take the time to admire the volcanic-like jagged piles of rock. Perched atop one of the stacks were a flock of seagulls seemingly resting, perhaps looking out for their next feed.
With these opportunistic feeders, I decided against having my snack. I chose instead to savour a hot cup of tea from my thermos.
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