Wind River Range, Continental Divide

I left South Pass City and continued hiking through the desert landscape, following the trail through the rolling sagebrush hills. The heat once again became oppressive as spring slowly turned into summer. Over the next few days, the incline grew, and my backpack felt heavier as I approached the Wind River Range.

I made this transition, from desert lowlands to alpine highlands, quite a few times on this hike, but it never failed to astound me. In the foothills around Bridger Wilderness, the rolling hillocks changed to sharp razorback ridges, the endless sagebrush gave way to pine forests and shimmering aspen, and birds filled the skies, singing to the rhythm of rushing mountain water. Then, as the elevations became steeper, the air cooled, great granite outcroppings loomed over me, and the great open sky of the desert closed in as the mountain ranges dominated the view.

The Wind River Range has some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the great Rocky Mountain range. The incredible, craggy beauty comes in large part from the soaring granite peaks, millions of years old, that distinguish this area. These soaring highs are complemented by glacially formed U-shaped valleys, cirque basins, and, between the peaks, massive glaciers that glint in the sun.

After a couple of days of hiking, I opted for an alternate route and reached Jackson Pass, which allowed a fantastic view of the Cirque of Towers, three tall, thin granite spires reflected by a perfect mountain lake. This is one of the most famous spots in the Range, with the waterfall rushing through the pine forests, and the varied colours of the towering limestone crags changing with the quality of the light, producing a sense of wonderment and peace.

Through all of this, herds of elk roam, some of the largest in the U.S., resembling the great migrations of the Serengeti. They are stalked by packs of hungry wolves and opportunistic bears, who burst from the forest hoping to make a kill. That great symbol of this nation, the bald eagle, soars overhead, and pikas and marmots hop through the wildflower meadows, hoping to avoid his gaze.

Throughout the hike, it’s impossible not to appreciate the grandeur of this wilderness and its endless ability to surprise. The CDT gave me the privilege of walking almost 100 mi (160 km) through this alpine wonderland. When I reached the beautiful Green River Lakes, the terrain had begun to shift from the grand and terrifying beauty of the mountains. I’d passed the treeline, and now the landscape was softer, more bucolic, a land of green meadows, wildflowers and fluttering butterflies. I looked back over the mountains one last time and continued along the way.