100 Mile Wilderness, Appalachian Trail

Descending from Sugarloaf Mountain, I rejoined the AT and hiked to Caribou Valley. Soon, I entered the Bigelow Preserve, a 36,000-acre wilderness area that protects the Bigelow Range. The climb up to the Bigelows was steep but manageable. Thick fog had rolled in by the time I reached the higher elevations, draping everything in a ghostly white shroud. Visibility dropped to just a few metres, and the wind had a bite to it. I stopped to dig into my pack, pulling out my beanie and adding a few warmer layers to brace against the chill.

The trail was wet and muddy after recent rains, and climbing the exposed ridges became a careful balancing act. Water pooled in rocky crevices, and the boggy sections between the peaks were a mess of mud and slick roots. My boots squelched with each step, and by the time I reached Avery Peak, my legs felt like I'd slogged through a swamp.

The descent led me to the southern tip of Flagstaff Lake, and with the mist lifted, I caught a glimpse of the lake and anglers fishing for salmon and trout. The lake, created by the damming of the Dead River, spread out like an inland sea, where waterbirds waded in its shallow waters. A loon, with its sleek black-and-white plumage, floated effortlessly. I watched for a while, listening to its eerie, echoing call before it dove underwater in search of fish.

Further along, I arrived at the Kennebec River, one of the AT's most intimidating and unbridged crossings. The river spans 400ft (122m) across and is fast-moving, as dam releases upstream cause sudden changes in water depth and current. Fording it was not an option, so I chose the official canoe ferry instead, adding a fun touch to my AT experience. The short paddle across gave me a rest from walking, and there was something oddly satisfying about continuing my journey by boat, even if only for a few minutes.

After the Kennebec, the trail wove through a landscape dotted with lakes, each one more peaceful than the last. Pierce Pond was a particular favourite, with its glassy surface reflecting the surrounding forest. I relished these moments, a welcome change from the rocky climbs.

I finally reached the southern boundary of the 100-Mile Wilderness, where civilisation faded, leaving only untamed nature ahead. This stretch of the AT is known for its solitude and raw beauty, travelling through dense forests, shimmering lakes, and wild landscapes. East of the trail lies the Borestone Mountain Audubon Sanctuary, founded by Robert Thomas Moor, an amateur ornithologist who purchased the land to create a haven for countless bird species. Moor later willed the land to the National Audubon Society, preserving thousands of acres of mature forest and protecting the sanctuary.

At a nearby campsite, I pitched my tent and prepared to settle for the night. With about 100mi (160km) to go, I lay down, stared up at the starry night and visualised standing on Katahdin's summit, bringing this incredible journey to an end.