Kuwohi, Applachian Trail

Leaving the shelter early in the morning, I crossed the Fontana Dam, the towering structure rising above Fontana Lake. The sight of the dam against the backdrop of the mountains set the tone for the journey ahead. As I stepped onto the trail, the climb began immediately, gaining 2,000ft (610m) in the first 3mi (5km). The forest, thick with oak and hickory, seemed to close in around me as I moved upward. The air grew cooler with every step, and the landscape shifted as I left the valley behind, transitioning into a denser, more rugged environment. The path was far from steady; sections were steep and demanding, requiring me to push myself with every uphill step.

My first real reward came when I reached Shuckstack Tower, a mighty steel structure standing tall against the sky, promising unforgettable views. I stared up at the 78 steps leading to the observation platform, my legs still trembling from the brutal climb out of Fontana. My mind kept insisting, "What's a few more steps?" but my legs had other ideas firmly planted in protest.

I dropped my pack, letting out a deep breath, and with sheer determination, I took the first step. Then another. Slowly, deliberately, I worked my way up the 60ft (18m) tower, each creaking metal stair a reminder of the heights I was gaining. The wind picked up as I climbed, whistling through the steel beams, and I gripped the railing tighter, feeling the tower sway ever so slightly beneath me.

Reaching the top, I was relieved to find a wood and metal room covered with glass—no clinging to railings required. And then, I looked out. The Great Smokies, Blue Ridge, Nantahala and Unicoi Mountains stretched endlessly, rolling in misty waves toward the horizon, their ridgelines folding into one another. And there in the distance lay the vastness of Fontana Lake, snaking through the valleys like a great serpentine river, its countless inlets and coves branching off in every direction. 

As breathtaking as the view was, it was time to keep moving. I took a deep breath, collected my thoughts, and continued hiking toward Buck Gap, the spot where the AT first reaches the North Carolina-Tennessee border. From here, the trail will carry me along the ridgeline for more than 200mi (320km), winding through the heart of the Smokies and beyond, straddling the boundary between the two states. 

Treading carefully, I focused on Kuwohi (formerly Clingmans Dome), the highest point on the AT at 6,643ft (2,025m). This peak, known to the Cherokee as Kuwohi or "mulberry place", held deep cultural significance. The recent restoration of its name honoured the Cherokee's connection to the land, preserving the legacy of its traditional stewards. The mountain was believed to be the home of the White Bear, the great chief of all bears, and the site of their council houses. It was also thought to be near the enchanted lake of Ataga'hi ("Gall Place"), whose waters had the power to heal wounded bears.

For the Cherokee, Kuwohi was more than just a peak; it was a sacred place visited by medicine people who sought guidance from the Creator. These individuals would pray and return to their people, offering wisdom and counsel on matters of great importance. 

The final push to the summit was steep but felt victorious, having climbed 4,200ft (1,280m) in elevation. Reaching the Clingmans Dome Observation Tower, I marvelled at its spiral design. The structure was both practical and striking, almost Brutalist in its style. It was made of steel and concrete, blending seamlessly into the landscape, offering an unobstructed, panoramic view of the Smokies.