Northwest Passage, Arctic Circle

As European empires pushed the boundaries of the known world, they looked not only to the coasts of Africa or the icy waters north of Russia but also toward the rugged, frozen heart of Canada. Somewhere beyond Hudson Bay, the jagged edge of Baffin Island, and the ice-clogged inlets of Lancaster Sound, there had to be a passage that connected the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

The Northwest Passage, as it came to be known, offered the same irresistible pull as its eastern counterpart: a direct maritime corridor to Asia that bypassed the long voyages around the African and South American capes. But unlike the Northeast Passage, which hugged most of the Siberian coastline, this route cut through the frozen maze of northern Canada. 

While the idea of a connection between the two oceans via the Canadian Arctic Archipelago sounded perfect on paper, in practice, it proved treacherous time and again. Many daring attempts were made in the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1576, Martin Frobisher believed he’d found a strait on Baffin Island and returned with what he thought was gold, though it proved worthless. John Davis, charting the Arctic in the 1580s, didn’t find a passage either, but he did discover the Falkland Islands. While in 1610, Henry Hudson sailed into the vast bay that now bears his name, convinced he was close. The following year, a mutiny left him cast adrift, and he vanished. 

Then, in 1845, Sir John Franklin set out with two ships and 128 men to finally chart the remaining gaps. He vanished without a trace, triggering one of the largest search efforts in naval history, where rescuers became explorers. 

Enter Robert McClure, who, in 1850, aboard HMS Investigator, was sent to search for Franklin and, if possible, find the Northwest Passage from the west. After sailing around the Americas, McClure passed through the Bering Strait and ventured deep into the Arctic before being locked in ice near Banks Island. For three years, his ship was trapped in ice, the crew on the edge of survival until they were found by another search expedition looking for Franklin. McClure and his crew sledged overland for the remainder of the Northwest Passage, making him the first person to cross the entire passage, even if not all of it by sea. As for the HMS Investigator, it eventually sunk and was discovered by Parks Canada in 2010, still in an upright position.

McClure’s rescue came from another vessel, HMS Resolute, commanded by Sir Edward Belcher. Ironically, Resolute was also trapped in ice and then abandoned. It later drifted free and was found by Americans, who returned it to Britain. When Resolute was retired, its salvaged timbers would one day become the Resolute Desk in the White House.

As the 20th century rolled in, the full Northwest Passage route remained unsailed until Norway’s most celebrated explorer, Roald Amundsen, came along. Between 1903 and 1906, he sailed a small fishing vessel, Gjøa, along the entire Northwest Passage with a crew of no more than six. He wintered on King William Island for two years and learned valuable survival skills from the local Inuit. As the first person to sail the whole Northwest Passage, Roald went on to greater fame by being the first to reach the South Pole, complete the Northeast Passage, and fly over the North Pole in a dirigible (airship). 

So now that the top of the world had been mapped, the dream was no longer elusive. But amid these successes, one question lingered.

What really happened to Sir John Franklin and the 128 souls aboard HMS Erebus and HMS Terror?

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