Estella, Camino Santiago

As I walked into Estella, I felt the centuries of history unfold. This town has been welcoming pilgrims for nearly a thousand years, though I’m pretty sure they weren’t greeted with coffee shops and football banners back then. Locally nicknamed ‘Estella la Bella’ (Estella the Beautiful), it sits quietly along the Camino, tucked between rolling hills and the Ega River, with a mix of medieval streets, Romanesque churches, and modern life all woven together.

I wandered up the long row of steps towards the 12th-century Church of San Pedro de la Rúa. Standing proudly on the hillside, it is a fine example of Romanesque architecture with its semi-circular arches and old stone cloisters. Just across the river is the Church of San Miguel, equally grand, perched above the rooftops like a guardian of the valley. Its entrance is hard to miss with the heavily carved reliefs on either side of the doorway, showing scenes from the Resurrection and Archangel Michael locked in battle. 

Both churches were built when Estella was flourishing as an important stop for traders, pilgrims, and royalty. At this time, the Gothic style was emerging in Europe, characterised by taller spaces and pointed arches. San Miguel mostly reflects the older Romanesque style with its thick walls and rounded arches, but you can see signs of change inside. Some of the columns and vaulting show a hint of that newer, more vertical look that was just beginning to spread.

The town has seen its share of political drama too. In the 19th century, during the Carlist Wars, Estella became the headquarters of Don Carlos, the pretender to the Spanish throne. His supporters crowned him Carlos V right here in town, declaring his claim to rule. Though his bid for power ultimately failed, his brief reign and the fighting that followed left their mark on Estella.

These days, passions run high for football instead. The locals love their team, Club Deportivo Izarra, which was founded in 1924. After decades bouncing between divisions, they’ve carved out a place in Spain’s Segunda Federación, and the banners flying around town make it clear where loyalties lie.

Estella also plays host to the GP Miguel Induráin cycling race, named after Spain’s legendary five-time Tour de France winner from 1991-1995. The race began in 1951 as the Gran Premio de Navarra, a small regional event that showcased local talent. Over time, it gained in reputation, drawing elite riders from across Spain. In 1998, it was renamed in honour of Induráin. These days, it’s part of the UCI ProSeries, one tier below the World Tour, attracting some of the world's best cyclists. For one day in April, the narrow streets and winding roads of Estella set the stage for fast-paced action, with several tough climbs that test the riders' strength, endurance and versatility.