Klamath River, Pacific Crest

The next 15mi (24km) were relatively quiet as I followed the trail along the ridgeline. Then, I reached a crest with views of Cliff Lake in the large valley below and Campbell Lake peeking out beyond it. As I continued another 5mi (8km), I came across Sky High Valley, where three lakes sat close together. Looking north from here, the striking white cliffs of Marble Mountain rose above the treeline, standing out against the green.

When the PCT met the Marble Mountain Trail, I veered right and began the descent into Little Marble Valley. The terrain shifted, with white rocky slopes stretching above the mountain cliffs. Marble Mountain, part of the Marble Mountain Wilderness, was just ahead. This wilderness spans 225,114 acres and is home to 89 lakes, surrounded by oak, fir, pines, and hemlock. 

As I hiked, I marvelled at Marble Mountain’s bright white cliffs, their glacially polished granite standing out against the landscape. Its peak’s curved escarpment caught my attention. The escarpment is split into two segments, with Marble Gap near the centre, giving it a distinctive shape. The mountain’s gradual eastern slope, where the PCT runs through, offered sweeping views of Marble Valley, while the western side was dominated by sheer cliffs with streams rushing at their base.

Flowing for 257mi (414km), the Klamath River stretches across Oregon and Northern California before reaching the Pacific Ocean. It’s the second-largest river in California by discharge, its waters winding through the Cascades and Klamath Mountains. The river, once a vital food source for Native Americans through its salmon and steelhead runs, has dramatically changed since European settlers arrived in the 1820s. Over the years, mining, the gold rush, and the construction of dams transformed its ecosystem. 

As I neared Seiad Valley, a small town of just 350 people, I realised I was only 15mi (24km) from the Oregon border. Ready for a break, I stopped at the historic Wildwood Tavern and Lodge. Nearly 100 years old, the tavern is best known for its 24ft (7.3m) long bar, which has been preserved through various remodels and ownership changes. There is no better place to unwind as it still welcomes passing travellers like me.