Logrono, Camino Santiago

If you enjoy a good drop of Spanish wine, then Logroño is the place to start, as it is the capital city of the world-famous winemaking La Rioja Region. It is also the second-largest city on the Camino Francés, with its origins dating back to Roman times, followed by Celtic settlement, and then becoming part of the Kingdom of Castile in the 11th century.

A dark chapter in Logroño's past unfolded during the Spanish Inquisition’s hunt for witchcraft. Between 1609 and 1614, the city became the centre of the Basque Witches trial, the largest investigation of its kind in history, with over 7,000 cases examined. Most of those accused were women, often left vulnerable and isolated, while the men were away working. Though the majority were never convicted, six people who refused to confess were burned at the stake. It’s a sobering reminder of how fear and superstition once held this region in their grip.

But today, Logroño has a different kind of energy. It’s famous for its tapas culture, and with around 50 tapas bars packed into just a few blocks, it’s impossible to go hungry here. I joined locals and pilgrims alike, hopping from one bar to the next, sampling everything from grilled peppers and mushrooms to tender slices of jamón and fresh anchovies, all paired with glasses of robust Rioja wine.

With my belly full, I sauntered up to the Cathedral of Santa María la Redonda to marvel at its impressive architecture. The grand entrance alone is a masterpiece, with its soaring twin towers and detailed stonework. But stepping inside, wandering down the central aisle beneath the lofty vaulted ceiling, I was completely taken aback by the main altarpiece. It was drenched in gold, brimming with intricate carvings that illustrated the story of Christ's life, death, and resurrection. I was struck by the sheer craftsmanship, where every surface is carved, and every figure is fully detailed. 

Tucked away behind the main altar, in the quieter space of the ambulatory, I spotted a small painting known as ‘The Calvary’, said to be by none other than Michelangelo. It’s easy to miss among all the grandeur, but there it was, a Michelangelo masterpiece right here in Spain. How it ended up in Logroño isn’t completely clear. The story goes that Vittoria Colonna, a close friend of Michelangelo, asked him to paint ‘The Calvary’, showing the scene of the crucifixion. Vittoria was married to an Italian military leader with Spanish roots, which might explain how the painting eventually made its way here. After Vittoria’s death, it’s believed Michelangelo included her in the painting as the figure of Mary Magdalene.

As I left the cathedral, I took a final glance at the painting and the grand altar and walked out into the sunshine. Getting my bearings, I set my sights on the nearest albergue. I was ready for a hot shower and a good night's sleep.