Mt Hood, Pacific Crest

For the next 5mi (8km), I hiked across a desolate old lava flow, its grey and barren landscape sprawling ahead as I made my way to the base of Mount Washington. Known as one of Oregon's Matterhorn, this deeply eroded volcano last erupted over 250,000 years ago. The surrounding wilderness is quiet, with little wildlife or vegetation beyond scattered pines and shrubs. The summit wasn’t reached until 1926 when six boys made history by scaling it for the first time.

Not far from the PCT, I passed the fascinating flat-topped Hayrick Butte, which from above resembles a perfect heart. This tuya, a type of subglacial volcano, boasts a nearly half-mile (800m) wide plateau perched atop 700ft (210m) vertical walls. The north slope is lush with forest, while the south end opens into meadows and shrubs. Hayrick’s summit offers stunning views of lakes, mountains, and buttes. 

Crossing Santiam Pass, the trail led me to Three Fingered Jack, a 200,000-year-old shield volcano. Though inactive, its highly eroded, jagged peaks add to Oregon’s unofficial Matterhorn list. As I skirted its western slopes, the trail climbed the north face with views of Canyon Creek Meadows.

From Three Fingered Jack, the trek wound through wide, barren terrain before reaching the base of Mount Jefferson. I circled the mountain, hiking about 10mi (16km) from its southern to northern sides, before entering the woodlands again. At the north end of the mountain, the trail ascended a ridge and led me along the western shore of Olallie Lake, eventually bringing me to Mount Hood National Forest.

The national forest is one of the most popular in the U.S., with 4 million visitors a year. Nestled within is Mount Hood, an active volcano and Oregon's tallest peak (11,249ft / 3,429m). The mountain, estimated to be half a million years old, last erupted around 1865 and is anticipated to erupt again within thirty years. First sighted in 1792, it was named by Lt. William Broughton after British Admiral Samuel Hood, despite the admiral being on the opposing side during the Battle of the Chesapeake.

No less remarkable than Mount Hood is the Timberline Lodge, built between 1936 and 1938 during the Great Depression. The craftsmanship inside is stunning, with handwoven carpets, carved animal figures, and a six-sided stone chimney stack. The lodge was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977, a testament to the artisans' work that still stands today.