Palas de Rei, Camino Santiago

As I step into Palas de Rei, I become keenly aware that with every mile I’m edging closer to the end of this journey. Santiago no longer feels like a distant dream; it is just over the horizon now. My aching legs, worn boots, and sore shoulders are proof of how far I have come, one steady step at a time. It is a strange mix of excitement and reluctance. Part of me is eager to reach the end and savour that sense of accomplishment, but another part has loved the rhythm of the Camino so much that I almost wish it would last a little longer.

Palas de Rei takes its name from the Latin phrase "Pallatium Regis" (Royal Palace), and it is said to have once belonged to King Wittiza, one of the last Visigoth kings of Spain. The Visigoths were a Germanic tribe who ruled large parts of the Iberian Peninsula after the fall of the Roman Empire. They brought new laws, culture, and politics to the area. Wittiza came to power in the late 7th century, initially co-ruling with his father, to secure their throne. But legend has it that once Wittiza became the sole ruler, it all went to his head. His reign is remembered for tyranny and excess, so much so that he earned the nickname Wittiza the Wicked. History isn’t clear on what exactly happened to him, but he didn’t make it out of his twenties. His death marked the beginning of the Visigothic downfall. Shortly after, in 711 AD, the Berber general Tariq ibn Ziyad led Muslim forces across the Strait of Gibraltar, marking the beginning of the conquest of Spain. This new wave swept through the region, culminating in the defeat of the last Visigothic king, Roderic, and ushering in a new chapter in Spain’s history under Muslim rule.

Centuries later, the town became a favourite spot for Galician nobility, and just a short distance away stands Pambre Castle, a well-preserved medieval military castle. Built in the 14th century on top of a hill, its thick walls and four corner towers still stand guard over the countryside. It has a fine example of medieval defensive architecture, with its double curtain walls protecting the internal keep. I won’t be heading that way, being in the opposite direction of the Camino, but I’ll surely add it to my list for a revisit.