Ponferrada, Camino Santiago

On the way to Ponferrada, as the road climbs towards Mount Irago, I reached a weathered 16ft (5m) oak pole with a small iron cross perched on top. Named the Cruz de Fierro, or Iron Cross, it is one of the most symbolic places on the Camino, atop the highest elevation on the route. For centuries, tradition has called for pilgrims to carry a stone from the start of their Camino and leave it at the foot of the cross. The stone represents the burdens, regrets, or sins the pilgrim carries, and placing it at the cross is a way to release them and move forward with a lighter heart. Some pilgrims choose to leave a trinket or personal item, such as a note or a photo, usually something meaningful to them. I added my own small stone, took a moment for myself, and pondered the many pilgrims and travellers who passed through here over so many centuries.

The road down from Mount Irago eventually wound its way to Ponferrada, a city surrounded by mountains. It’s the last major stop before Santiago, and its history runs deep. During the Roman Empire, this region was one of the richest mining areas in Europe. The nearby Las Médulas, now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the largest Roman open-pit gold mine. More than 3,000 tonnes of gold were extracted. The Romans used a method called ‘ruina montium’, meaning ‘wrecking of mountains’, to extract the gold, redirecting entire rivers to collapse the hillsides. The landscape left behind is one of jagged red rock pinnacles set amidst lush green valleys and chestnut groves. Trails around the formations provide an opportunity to get up close and imagine the Romans blasting away whole sections of the mountain in their pursuit of gold.

With my passion for castles, I was very excited to visit the Knights Templar Castle. Walking up the path to its entrance, I took in the grand polygonal towers and thick stone walls. This castle was undoubtedly built for defence. It reminded me of the movie Dragonheart, and I half expected a dragon to land on its parapets, breathing fire. Instead, all I heard was the distant call of birds and the humdrum of the city quietly buzzing below. 

The castle was built in 1178, when the Templars were a powerful and fierce group of skilled soldiers during the time of the Crusades. They were the guardians of Christian pilgrims heading for the Holy Land, and here at this castle, they protected those making the long journey to Santiago. As I walked along the parapet, gazing out over the layered outer walls, I enjoyed the sweeping views of the city and the mountains beyond. The castle now houses an impressive library of over 1,400 books, including facsimile editions of Leonardo da Vinci’s manuscripts. Seeing these facsimiles gave me a rare opportunity to appreciate Leonardo’s extraordinary genius.