The hustle and bustle of modern life and big cities was ever-present as I edged closer to Tokyo. The old post-towns are now just memories with few buildings left as reminders. I reached Saitama, a densely populated city with over a million residents that is part of the Greater Tokyo Area. Very little is left of the five former post-towns. Three have risen to city status whilst the other two became wards in Saitama. Each has retained their original name.
Konosu (#7) was destroyed in WWII, leaving only a stone marker at the location of the former honjin but due to its close proximity to Edo, it was a bustling post-town with 58 inns. However, even more bustling was Okegawa (#6) with 340 inns and numerous entertainment establishments. The nearby Kano Tenjin Shrine was known for its thermal baths that apparently cured several diseases.
Between Okegawa and Ageo (#5) were expansive fields of red flowers that would bloom in summer. Ageo was a flower trading town and the red flowers provided the necessary colour for the cosmetic rouge demanded by high society ladies and geishas.
Omiya (#4) and Urawa (#3) are now wards of Saitama. Omiya was a prosperous town with very comfortable honjins making it a preferred final stop for daimyos and their entourage prior to reaching Edo. Omiya draws its name from a large Shinto shrine that had the highway passing behind it. Regarded as disrespectful to the shrine both the highway and the town were moved in front of it encouraging travellers to visit and make offerings.
A mere two miles (3km) away was Urawa (#3). The old highway was lined with high-rise buildings and the constant noise of modern traffic was a reminder that I was nearing the end of my journey.


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