Lake Itasca, Mississippi River

I have to wonder what Martin Strel was thinking as he entered the calm, shallow headwaters of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca in northern Minnesota, because here I am, standing in the same place, imagining him preparing for his epic swim all the way to the Gulf. For more than 2,000 mi (3,200 km), he would tackle this mighty river flowing through the heart of America, stroke by stroke, pulling and pushing for 10–12 hours a day on most days, sometimes less depending on water and weather conditions.

Lake Itasca itself is surprisingly modest at first glance, covering just 1,200 acres, with an average depth of 20–35 ft (5–10 m) and sitting 1,475 ft (450 m) above sea level. From this narrow point, the Mississippi is barely 25 ft (8 m) wide, yet it will swell dramatically downstream. Only 60 mi (96 km) later, it flows through Lake Winnibigoshish, where it reaches its widest point at 11 mi (18 km). Standing here, it is remarkable to think that a single drop of water from this spot would take roughly 90 days to reach the Gulf of Mexico, yet Martin completed the journey in 66 days, swimming faster than the river itself.

One of the river’s defining features is its twisting, winding path. From these narrow headwaters, it meanders across the continent, shaping landscapes, floodplains, and communities as it moves south, passing through ten states—Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, and Louisiana. Among the towns and cities it flows past are St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Louis, and New Orleans, as well as Hannibal, Missouri, where Samuel Clemens, better known as Mark Twain, grew up and drew inspiration from the river for his timeless tales.

The surrounding Itasca State Park, officially established in 1891, protects ancient forests and wetlands. This came about largely thanks to Jacob V. Brower, a land surveyor and explorer who spent months in the late 1800s investigating the region's lakes and streams. He argued that Lake Itasca, rather than smaller southern lakes, was the true source of the Mississippi, and he campaigned to preserve it from logging and development. Brower’s efforts earned him the nickname “Father of Lake Itasca”, and the park’s visitor centre is named in his honour. In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps reshaped the Mississippi’s emerging channel, digging a new path, installing rock rapids, and placing stepping stones that let visitors walk directly across the river. So, of course, I had to hop across myself, knowing this would be the only time I’d ever cross the Mississippi on foot.

As I watch the river trickle from Lake Itasca, I imagine Martin Strel powering his way down its full length, stroke by stroke. While I plan to follow in his path, I’ll do so by boat, staying relatively dry and sparing myself the 10–12 hours of daily swimming. Still, I’ll be tracing the twists and turns, towns, and stories of the river, safe in the knowledge that I don’t have to be a superhuman swimmer to appreciate the grandeur of the Mississippi.