As I arrive at Stephansplatz, the familiar energy of the square washes over me. It is the beating heart of the Inner Stadt (city centre), dominated by St. Stephen's Cathedral and bustling with tourists and locals alike. Restaurants and cafés are alive with chatter, their tables laden with Viennese cuisine, their classic wiener schnitzel is a must-try and steaming coffee (Vienna's coffeehouses are such an icon that they carry the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage designation). Boutiques buzz with activity, and the myriad chocolate stores are no exception. Inside, they're packed with people indulging their sweet tooth, carefully selecting fine chocolates and delectable treats, the rich aroma of cocoa spilling out onto the streets. It's a feast for the senses and a slice of Vienna I can never resist.
The cathedral's 350ft (107m) tall south tower is visible above the city's skyline for miles and took 150 years to complete. Its counterpart on the north side was never finished. The roofline is a spectacular zig-zag pattern of 2300,000 tiles in ten different colours. A church has been on this site since the 12th century and the current Gothic structure dates from the 14th to 16th centuries. Its interior is magnificent, particularly the finely detailed pulpit, exquisite nave, and high altar.
Three main streets in the pedestrian zone fan out from Stephansplatz. Graben, one of these streets, is home to the Trinity Column, a stunning monument with ornate sculptures and gilded details erected in the late 17th century to commemorate the end of a devastating plague and victory against the Ottomans. Nearby, Otto Wagner's Grabenhof building stands out with its striking pink marble columns and decorated golden railings. Further along is Ankerhaus, another of his works, flanked by two side streets.
Another iconic street is Kärntnerstrasse, which is also lined with shops and cafes, but it's the landmarks that catch my attention. The historic Hotel Sacher, founded in 1876, has a long and distinguished story. Visited by notable guests, including Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Rainier of Morocco, and US President John F. Kennedy, the hotel's extensive history is matched only by the decadence of its Sachertorte—a slice of chocolate heaven and apricot jam filling that has become a Viennese institution.
Across from the hotel, the Neo-Renaissance façade of the Vienna State Opera stands as a testament to the city's love affair with music. Often called the cradle of the waltz, Vienna fostered the genius of Salzburg-born Mozart and provided German-born Beethoven with his creative home. Locally born Johann Strauss II, the Waltz King himself, also rose to fame here, though it was almost a near miss. His father, determined for him to become a banker, tried to steer him away from music, but Strauss couldn't help himself—practicing in secret until his talent could no longer be contained.
The last main street,
Kohlmarkt, is recognised for two significant things. One is the cake shop
Demel, founded in 1786, where lengthy queues form on the weekends, no matter
the weather. It's easy to understand why, given its reputation for its
delectable treats like apple strudel and its version of sachertorte. Beyond the
pastries, Demel's elegant interior, complete with chandeliers and gilded
details, invites diners into a piece of Viennese history. The second
significant landmark is the Hofburg Palace, just past Demel at the end of the
street, where a glimpse of its grand façade leads me to its main gate, ready to
immerse myself in the history of the Habsburgs.


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