St Arnaud, Te Araroa

Luckily, I managed to stay in the kayak and not tip over into the Te Hoiere/Pelorus River. After an enjoyable paddle on the river, I returned to the trail again and continued my journey.

In Māori, the Pelorus River is called Te Hoiere, named after the first canoe to travel to South Island. Ngati Kuia tells the story of Matua Hautere, one of Kupe's descendants, sailing aboard the waka (canoe) Te Hoiere and reaching Te Waipounamu (South Island). Geographically, Te Hoiere/Pelorus River is the largest river in the northwest Marlborough region flowing eastward 25mi (40km) into Te Hoiere/Pelarus Sound.

Hiking alongside Te Hoiere/Pelorus River, I crossed a swinging suspension bridge and entered Mount Richmond Forest Park, the second largest forest park in New Zealand. The track was easygoing, with a few protruding roots I had to climb over. After a few miles, I took a side track down to the Emerald Pool. The colour was a brilliant deep, transparent green enticing me to take a quick dip.

After another 6mi (10km), the river and I parted ways. I zig-zagged through a big red beech forest to the Rocks Hut Overlook for a stunning 360 degrees panoramic view of the backcountry and the peak of Mount Richmond.

The trail went on through the Forest Park, sometimes on the ridge for several miles, sometimes descending into the forest, then at other times up on rocky summits, until I arrived in St Arnaud.

Previously known as Rotoiti, St Arnaud was a small alpine village on Lake Rotoiti's northern edge, serving hikers, skiers, and a hundred-odd locals. The lake was initially named Lake Arthur after Edward Wakefield's brother, but the name didn't stick and it reverted to its Māori name Rotoiti.

Arthur was a captain in the Royal Navy and later part of the New Zealand Company. His brother Edward tasked him with establishing a new settlement named Nelson. Today, Nelson is the oldest city on South Island and the second oldest in New Zealand. Located on the shores of Tasman Bay, the city thrives in the local art and crafts scene.

Rotoiti Lake borders the Nelson Lakes National Park, which I will be hiking through for the next 65mi (104km). 

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