Tararua Forest, Te Araroa

Heading southeast from Palmerston North, I arrived at one of the entrances into Tararua Forest Park. A protected area at the southern end of North Island, the park contains nearly three-quarters of the Tararua Range. The mountain has a northeast-southwest direction and stretches for 50mi (80km).

Its three highest peaks are Pukeamoamo/Mitre, Mount Bannister, and Mount Hector, ranging from 5016-5150ft (1529-1570m). As the range's summits are relatively uniform, it indicates that it was once part of an ancient plain that was pushed upward millions of years ago. With time the plain eroded away, leaving behind the mountains known today.

Mount Hector was named after James Hector, a Scottish geologist, naturalist, and surgeon who immigrated to New Zealand and became the chief government scientist. James was a highly accomplished person who founded the Geological Survey of New Zealand. He also advised politicians, managed the Wellington Botanic Gardens, developed the Royal Society of New Zealand, and wrote 45 scientific papers. James received several awards for his contributions, including the Order of the Golden Cross and Knight Commander of St Michael and St George. The Hector Medal and Prize were established in his honour, and it's the leading award for excellence in research.

The range has a very windy and wet climate, dumping as much as 5,000 mm of rain annually on the western slopes. Consequently, the vegetation varies. In the west, it's a combination of conifers, ferns, shrubs, and vines. In contrast, the drier east side is dominated by beech and a more open forest.

With its rugged terrain and challenging climate, the mountain range is wildly popular with trampers (hikers). The Tararua Tramping Club was established in 1919, making it the first of its kind in New Zealand. Up to 150,000 people visit the park each year.

The Tararua range was once the refuge of the now-extinct huia bird. It had the most distinct bill shape, with the female’s being long, thin, and curving downwards, while the male’s was short and stout, like a crow. They had deep-metallic, bluish-black plumage, orange wattles, and a broad white band across the tip of the tail feathers. In Māori culture, the bird was sacred, and its feathers were worn only by people of high status. The birds became extinct following significant deforestation and overhunting.