Palm Oil Plantations, Orangutans

Moving through the forest, I eventually come to a clearing. All the dense layers, the birdsong in the canopy and the rustling of leaves as animals move through the branches suddenly fall away. What lies before me is something entirely different: neat, uniform rows of trees stretching out in straight, evenly spaced lines. I realise I am standing at the edge of a palm oil plantation.

Palm oil is a major part of this landscape. It’s one of the most widely used vegetable oils in the world, found in everyday products from food to cosmetics. It’s also a highly efficient crop, producing significantly more oil per hectare than alternatives such as rapeseed or soybeans. Because it can produce so much from a relatively small area, it helps keep products like chocolate, soap, and fuel more affordable. In simple terms, it produces more while using less land.

But it doesn’t feel that simple.

In places like Kalimantan, it has become an important driver of economic growth and provides employment for millions of people. For many, it offers a more stable income compared to traditional farming or fishing. In some areas, particularly in East Kalimantan, it has also supported a shift away from industries such as mining towards palm oil, seen as a more stable and reliable source of income.

However, the difference between this and the forest I’ve just walked through is hard to ignore. Where there was once a mix of towering trees, undergrowth, and movement, this is more simplified and ordered. Large areas of forest have been cleared to make way for plantations, and in some cases, this has included carbon-rich peatlands, releasing stored carbon into the atmosphere.

To prepare the land, fire has sometimes been used as a quick and low-cost method of clearing. When this happens on peat soils, the impact can go far beyond the surface. These layers can burn slowly underground, producing thick, lingering smoke. The air becomes heavy with haze, reducing visibility and affecting air quality not just here, but across the region, often reaching neighbouring countries such as Singapore and Malaysia. During severe periods, this can disrupt daily life and increase the risk of respiratory illness among those living and working in these areas.

In response to these challenges, there is a growing effort to improve land management and how palm oil is produced. Some of these initiatives include clearing land without fire, restoring degraded land, and protecting remaining forests and corridors so wildlife can continue moving between fragmented habitats. Peatlands are also being re-wetted to stabilise the soil and reduce the risk of underground fires.

There are also certification systems aimed at promoting more sustainable practices, encouraging producers to limit deforestation and reduce environmental impact. For many smallholders, who make up a large part of the industry, the costs and requirements can make certification more difficult to obtain without additional support.

I’m left with more questions than answers. It’s a complex, layered issue, balancing the needs of people and economic growth with the protection of the natural landscape and the life that depends on it. The intent is there, but it will take time to understand how effectively it is followed through and what impact it ultimately has.