Sancerre, Loire Valley, Challenge Completed!

Perched about 400 ft (121 m) above the valley on a massif, Sancerre cuts an impressive figure on the approach. What makes the town unique, however, is that it no longer has a château! This is something of a relief for me; after Chambord, I think I’ve had enough palaces for now. All that’s left are the ruins, which I spend a short while exploring before heading down to the town and onto the Esplanade.

Sancerre’s esplanade has one of the most famous views of the Loire Valley, and its little taverns serve some of its best wine. I savour one of my last downhill walks along cobblestoned streets until I reach the spot. Here, I settle down on a low wicker chair and take in the scene. I look out over the broad floodplains, their poplar trees and herds of cows grazing on the perfect green grass. As the waiter brings a glass of local pinot noir, I shift my gaze to the reeds, full of birds and insects, and then the great white ribbon of the Loire itself and the little islets that break its stream. I follow its flow eastwards, beyond the Valley, which ends as the river turns south and flows towards the sea.

The flow of the river's waters reminds me of the long passage of time, of the countless centuries that have passed through this Valley, and the countless lives that have made it home. I think back to the time of Henry, Eleanor and Charles VII, whose betrayals, struggles, and bloody wars changed the course of history, but seem so remote now, even on the battlements of their castles. I think back to Joan of Arc, and her heroic rise and fall, then to François and Leonardo da Vinci, and their grand ideas. I also think back to the merchants of Saumur who traded and prayed until they could trade and pray no more, and the fishermen of Quartier de Points and their king. I think back on my own journey here, the châteaux that I’ve explored, the steep streets I’ve conquered, the good wine drunk, and the stories discovered.

As the summer night begins to close in, and the stars appear in the sky one-by-one, I leave the tavern and make my way back to my hotel. I follow the winding streets, guided by moonlight, up to the top of the hilltop town. I take one last look at the river, almost sparkling under the full moon, hold up my hand and wave au revoir to my journey along the Loire.