Holyhead, Wales Coast Path

Heading north from Beaumaris, I followed the Anglesey Coastal Path, part of the larger Wales Coast Path to Holyhead. It is located on Holy Island on the northwestern coast of Anglesey. This small coastal town is positioned directly across from Dublin. Being the shortest and safest route to Ireland across the treacherous Irish Sea, the town has become an important route for transporting goods between Ireland and England. With its straightforward sea crossing, the port has a busy maritime traffic. For context, up until the end of 2020, over 450,000 trucks used the ferry services to cross the sea.

Behind the ferry terminal stands Skinner's Monument, commemorating Captain John M. Skinner. He was an American who lost his arm during the Revolutionary War and an eye when he was a child. When he left the Navy, he moved to Holyhead to work as a captain on mail boats. He was a colourful character, fondly remembered for his kindness and generosity, who would walk around town with his pet raven like a pirate with his parrot. A fearless sea captain, he was remembered for successfully bringing a ship into the harbour while navigating rocks and small islands during rough weather conditions. This was nearly three-quarters of a century before the Holyhead Breakwater was constructed, necessitated to overcome the northerly winds that would prevent ships from safely reaching the harbour. As a side note, the breakwater, at 1.7mi (2.7km), is the longest in the United Kingdom.  

His stories of bravery, service and charity are captured in the Holyhead Maritime Museum, where Captain Skinner, dressed in uniform, is immortalised in a life-size model along with his pet raven. On the wall hangs a painting by his friend James Sparrow, capturing his house and local friends. In the town centre was the 13th-century St. Cybi's Church, dedicated to the patron saint of Holyhead. Founded by St. Cybi in the 6th century, the site housed a clas, a Celtic Church with monastic and educational aspects. The church was built inside a Roman fortification called Caergybi, the Welsh name for Holyland, with three walls and the fourth being the sea. This was a unique feature and one of very few in Europe. The current church, dated to the early 16th century, has a painting inside near the organ depicting the Tudor rose, a symbol of the royal Tudor family who were of partial Welsh descent. 

Continuing around the coast, I hiked past Holyland Mountain and came upon South Stack. It was a small rocky island just off the coast accessed via a suspension bridge. The island is largely known for its lighthouse, built in 1809 to guide ships through the hazardous sea. I took the well-paved path up to the lighthouse for a panoramic view. During nesting season, the island is home to various species, including puffins, razorbills, guillemots, and kittiwakes.

I will take some time to explore while enjoying the rugged cliffs, wild sea and coastal scenery. The next stop will be Caernarfon.