Franconia Ridge, Appalachian Trail

Once again, I began climbing to the ridge. This time, I headed toward Hanover, where I crossed the state line into New Hampshire, my thirteenth state and the second-last one before the finish line. How exciting to know I am getting ever closer to Mt. Katahdin. Hanover is a terrific resupply town and is well known as the home of the private Ivy League Dartmouth College. Founded in 1769, Dartmouth is one of the oldest colleges in the country. I stopped for lunch at a local spot, where I devoured a hearty bowl of clam chowder served with thick slices of crusty bread. 

With my supplies refilled and a satisfied stomach, I continued toward Mount Moosilauke, an impressive peak on this section of the AT. Standing at 4,802ft (1,464m), it's the most south-westerly of the 4,000ft (1,219m) summits in the White Mountains and is often called the "Gentle Giant". Moosilauke is also where, in 1927, a group of "19 candidates immune to mortal fear" participated in the first timed long downhill ski race. Each fell on his way down many times; such was the state of the ungroomed ski run—nothing like today's smooth, manicured slopes.  

As I climbed higher, the forest thinned, and Moosilauke's treeless summit appeared. Views extended to Kinsman Mountain, the Presidential Range, Franconia Ridge and, on very clear days, as far as the Green Mountains and Adirondack, famous for its conservation movement and the rise of early American tourism in the 19th century. 

While on the summit, I took a load off and snacked on a nice mix of nuts and dried fruit—the perfect combination of protein to fill me up and sugar to keep my energy levels steady. I also added some electrolyte powder to one of my smaller bottles of water, knowing I'd need to replenish the salts I'd been sweating out along the way. The quick break allowed me to recharge, and I could already feel the boost as I geared up for the next stretch of the trail.

Descending from Moosilauke, I approached Franconia Notch State Park around Lonesome Lake. This area is known for some of the most dramatic views in New Hampshire, especially as the trail begins to wind toward Franconia Ridge. I hiked down into Pemigewasset Valley, passed beneath an overpass, and crossed the Pemigewasset River over a bridge.

Once across, the real climb began—my ascent to Franconia Ridge. The trail started easy enough, but it soon gave way to a steep incline, and I could feel every step as I quickly gained elevation. The landscape shifted from a dense hardwood forest to a darker, thicker stand of spruce and fir. The air grew cooler, and I pulled on another layer. 

Reaching the ridge, Mount Lincoln stood to the right of the trail, one of six peaks that make up the Franconia Range. Turning left, I continued toward the summit of Little Haystack and entered the alpine zone. The terrain quickly opened into rocky, exposed ground, and I felt the cold wind whipping around me as I pushed forward. The climb was tough, with rocky, uneven ground that demanded my attention. The narrow path was tricky, with sections of loose gravel and large boulders. 

I stayed focused as I worked my way up Mount Lafayette, the highest point at 5,249ft (1,600m). The ascent was steep, with the terrain growing more challenging the higher I went. After reaching Lafayette's summit, I was relieved to start my descent. A short way down, I stopped to admire the full expanse of Franconia Ridge and the incredible vistas I was afforded here.