Crowder Canyon, Pacific Crest

Returning to the trail and gradually ascending, I hiked deeper into the wilds of Whitewater Canyon. Carved by the Whitewater River from the San Bernardino Mountains, the canyon was raw and untamed. It was hard to believe that this rugged gorge had once been overrun with cattle, the river murky and neglected. As I watched the crystal-clear water flow by, it felt like a small miracle, a result of tireless efforts from the Conservancy Association, who had worked to restore the wilderness by removing non-native diseased trees, demolishing abandoned structures, and retiring grazing cattle. The wildlife here, from bighorn sheep to the occasional black bear, seemed to thrive in this untouched land. I paused by the river, letting the cool air wash over me, soaking in the serenity of a place preserved for generations.

The trail ahead beckoned, narrowing as it wound its way through a rocky pass, and I felt a growing sense of anticipation. As I moved north, each step became harder, my legs protesting the steady climb. Yet, the promise of reaching Big Bear Lake kept me going. I could feel the crisp mountain air as I neared the high-altitude town. Big Bear—its name alone filled me with a sense of adventure. I smiled at the thought of the Hollywood magic created here, with scenes from classic movies like Gone With the Wind, Daniel Boone, and Paint Your Wagon filmed in the area. I could imagine the Hollywood legends walking the same trails.  

After crossing Delamar Mountain, the trail twisted and turned, leading me toward Deep Creek. The sound of rushing water filled my ears as I neared Aztec Falls, a small cascade that fed into a deep, inviting pool. The heat from the sun pressed down on me, and the temptation to dive in was almost unbearable. But I pushed forward, knowing that something better was ahead. For the next 15mi (24km), Deep Creek was my constant companion, the rhythmic flow of its waters providing a comforting backdrop to my hike.

When I finally arrived at Deep Creek Hot Springs, I couldn't wait to slip into the warm, mineral-rich waters. The soothing heat relaxed my aching muscles, and for a moment, I simply let go. I closed my eyes, letting the warmth seep in, feeling utterly content. It was one of those rare moments when everything fell into place, and the miles I'd walked were completely worth it.

Refreshed and renewed, I followed the creek until it eventually veered off, leading me toward Silverwood Lake. The cool, glassy water was a welcome sight, especially after another lengthy, dusty trek. The creation of the lake, brought about by the construction of the Cedar Springs Dam in 1971, led to the flooding of the town of Cedar Springs. Residents were forced to relocate as the dam created the reservoir, submerging their homes and the surrounding land. On the positive side, it provided much-needed water resources to the region. 

Another 15mi (24km) later, I reached Crowder Canyon near Interstate 15. It struck me that 19th-century traders had once travelled this very route, linking Santa Fe to Los Angeles on a gruelling 700mi (1,100km) journey. Following in their footsteps, I crossed beneath the Interstate, leaving the San Bernardino National Forest behind me. Ahead lay the Angeles National Forest, a new chapter in my journey, and I felt a flicker of excitement at the thought of what was to come.