Ena, Nakasendo

 Surfacing from the woods, I arrived in Mizunami and its former post-towns Hosokute-juku (#48) and Okute-juku (#47). In between the two post-towns was Biwagi-pass, a very difficult pass to cross, mostly due to frequent inclement weather rather than the road itself. Stone paving was laid in this section to make it easier for the traveller to traverse and minimise the slipperiness. 

The trail through the pass is lined with Jizo statues. The stone statues are shaped to look like children but in essence they are the image of Jizo Bosatsu, guardian deity of children and travellers. A kind and patient deity, the Jizo maintains a double duty by protecting travellers on their journey and also the spirits of dead children who are unable to cross the river into the afterlife. Jizo protects the children from the mean spirited Yokai by hiding them beneath his clothes and becomes their caretaker in place of their parents. 

As the weather cools, locals dress the Jizo statues with red bibs and hats as a way of earning credit to get into the afterlife. The colour red is said to keep away sickness and danger, making it an appropriate colour to dress the deity. 

I made my way into Ena, where the former post-town Oi-juku (#46) continues to exist as a suburb. Oi is located in the foothills of the Japanese Alps where the winters are extremely cold and very snowy. The area is well preserved with the typical sharp-turns in the road to deter enemies. Parts of the highway date back to 1100 AD. The gateway to the former honjin and several regular inns have survived to this day, including the 400 year old Ichikawa Ryokan, formerly Kakuya Inn, that continues to be in business today. 

On my next stop I will enter the famous Kiso Valley.