I arrived in Santarém, the third largest city on my journey. As I approached the Port, I was again struck by the meeting of waters, where the brown Amazon River merged with the stunning deep blue tributary, the Tapajós River. Seeing this natural wonder was truly magical.
Originally, Santarém was home to indigenous tribes until Portuguese explorer Pedro Teixeira and accompanying missionaries stumbled upon the area in 1621. Pedro continued his exploration while the missionaries founded a village on the site called Tapajós, which was later renamed Santarém.
Once I disembarked the boat, I headed straight to the waterfront to witness the meeting of waters from a different perspective. The Tapajós River is famous for its crystal-clear water and white sand, boasting over 60mi (100km) of natural beaches, ideal for swimming.
Much as I wanted to take a dip, I was more interested in visiting the Tapajós National Forest, a protected area of the Amazon rainforest. It is part of an international program called REDD+ (Reducing Emission from Deforestation and Forest Degradation), which focuses on reducing greenhouse gas emissions. As a REDD+ site, the forest is managed by the local communities, who receive incentives for implementing sustainable practices that reduce emissions.
One way they achieve this is via agroforestry, where various crops are planted alongside trees. The benefit of this approach is that trees provide the crops with shade and help improve soil and reduce erosion.
Another method is to clear small patches of forest and plant crops, a practice known as slash-and-burn agriculture. After a few years of cultivation, the land is left fallow, allowing the forest to regenerate. But this practice has been criticised for contributing to deforestation. However, it is believed that growing crops on previously forested land would likely reduce the need to resort to farming methods that require large amounts of chemical fertilisers and pesticides.
Returning to town, I strolled around the city centre, searching for a place serving Feijoada, the Brazilian version and not to be confused with the Portuguese version. Feijoada is Brazil's national dish, a hearty stew featuring pork and black beans. It is served with sauteed greens, cheese rolls, rice and freshly sliced oranges. The black beans are flavoured with onions, tomatoes, coriander and garlic, while the pork may include dried beef. After all this travelling, I am in dire need of a hearty meal.
I am also excited about
my upcoming hike, hoping to catch sight of Amazon's unique and colourful birds.


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It's so good to see you here . . .