Three Cliffs Bay, Wales Coast Path

This leg of my journey focused on the Gower Peninsula, a stretch of land that extends southwest into the Bristol Channel. Bordered by the expansive Loughor Estuary to the north and the sweeping Swansea Bay to the east, the peninsula is the UK’s first designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). This special status recognises exceptional scenic beauty, and I couldn't help but appreciate the significance of this recognition.

The peninsula was a treasure trove of history, with no less than six castles scattered across its terrain. Loughor Castle, erected during the Norman conquest, stands atop a first-century Roman fort, whose remains are located beneath the town. An even older discovery occurred at Paviland Cave, where a 33,000-year-old male fossil was unearthed. Among the peninsula's landmarks are eight standing stones from the Bronze Age, including Arthur's Stone near Cefn Bryn, said to be linked to the legendary King Arthur but more likely a remnant of a Stone Age burial ground. 

The trail led me past places like Penclawdd, famous for cockle harvesting, and the ruins of Weobley Castle overlooking the estuary and salt marshes. I then reached the westernmost tip of the peninsula and was greeted by the wild beauty of Rhossili Beach. Three miles (5km) of wild, surf-swept shoreline stretched before me, its golden sands framed by the steep-sided Rosshili Downs. 

Venturing inland, I hiked through quaint villages and acres of farmland, eventually arriving in Oxwich, a small village known for Oxwich Castle. Constructed in the 16th century as a private residence, the castle faced disrepair by the 1940s and the threat of demolition before being saved by Cadw, the Welsh organisation devoted to preserving historic structures. Leaving the main road, I descended toward the beach, my gaze fixed on Three Cliffs Bay. The beach's compacted sand made hiking easier as I walked along its edge. The retreating sea, brought about by low tide, kept a fair distance.

Two prominent rock formations, Little Tor and Great Tor, came into view, both popular rock climbing destinations. Despite its small size, Little Tor boasted several climbing routes catering to different skill levels. Great Tor, the larger rock face, projected further into the beach and offered longer, technical routes spanning two levels. Over 40 different routes were available, though those from beach level were tide-dependent. 

With the tide on my side, I walked around Great Tor, the sea breeze invigorating my senses. Soon, I found myself at the boundary separating Oxwich Beach from Three Cliffs Bay. A trio of majestic cliffs framed the bay along a pristine beach that regularly receives the sought-after Blue Flag Award. 

As I stood there, waves lapping in the distance, I took my hiking boots off, rolled up my pants and bravely marched into the Irish Sea. The chilly water sent tingles down my feet as they adjusted to the cool temperature. 

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