I was very grateful for my rest at Wayah Bald, but now it was time to face the next stretch—a relentless climb up wide switchbacks to Wesser Bald. Once a true bald, Wesser isn't quite the same anymore, as trees now cover much of the mountain, hiding the open expanse it used to have.
Hiking through a dense hardwood forest of oak and maple, I spotted a bright green luna moth, its wings poised to take flight. The luna moth is a fascinating insect with no mouth or digestive system. And it seems that it doesn't need either because it only lives for a week after leaving the cocoon, during which time it doesn't eat at all. Bats love to snack on them, but luna moths have a clever defence where they spin the tails of their wingtips in circles to disorientate the bats and make a quick getaway.
Soon, I exited the woods and arrived at the Nantahala Outdoor Centre (NOC). Nestled along the Nantahala River, the NOC is the perfect pit stop for restocking supplies and picking up any mail. It's especially helpful for AT thru-hikers who can send a box of food and essentials ahead of time. The centre stores the packages until hikers come to collect them, making it a convenient way to save both time and money when passing through town.
After picking up my stash of goodies, I crossed the river and headed toward Stecoah Gap. Though it's just a roadside rest stop, the picnic tables and the gap in the trees offering views toward Fontana made it the perfect place to snack and soak up a bit of sunshine.
My next destination was Fontana Lake, where I entered the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Fontana Lake, the deepest lake in North Carolina, is a serene and stunning reservoir. With many islands, coves, and inlets, the lake reaches depths of up to 440ft (130m) and stretches across 238mi (383km) of tree-dotted shoreline. The lake also holds a bit of history, as several towns were submerged when Fontana Dam was built. Completed in 1944, the dam was once the fourth tallest in the world. Today, more than 90% of the lake is publicly owned, ensuring its protection from pollution and development, leaving the water and environment pristine.
Right next to the Fontana Visitor Centre is the Fontana Hilton, and after weighing my options, I decided it was the perfect place to rest my legs before tackling the next steep stretch of the hike. The upcoming climb would be challenging, so I knew a solid rest was crucial. The bonus of staying at the shelter was the hot shower facilities—an absolute luxury after a long day on the trail—and even power to charge my gear. It felt like a small slice of comfort before heading back into the mountains.
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