Wayah Bald, Appalachian Trail

Before leaving Tray Mountain shelter, I scooted down a side trail to a stream to top up my water. Then, it was on to the long journey to Wayah Bald. The up-and-down elevation was manageable, passing through several gaps. The trail was well-maintained, with plenty of windblown, scraggly trees hugging the sides of the narrow trail. I had to be cautious of the American Holly with its prickly leaves. This evergreen tree is not only distinctive for its sharp foliage but also tied to winter. During the colder months, it produces small red berries, a favourite of migrating Cedar Waxwings. These vibrant birds flock to the hollies to feast on the fruit as they make their way north. 

I swung around below Double Spring Knob, one of Georgia's high peaks, up to Powel Mountain (aka Kelly's Knob). While it might not have been the most exciting mountain, the view of Lake Burton in the distance made it totally worth the stop.

As I descended into Dicks Creek, my focus shifted to crossing the state border. With a steady, slow ascent, I finally reached a small, weathered wooden sign nailed to a tree that read, "GA/NC". That was my first state down—only 13 more to go. I stepped across that invisible line from Georgia into North Carolina.

Thinking I was near the top at the border, I soon realised that North Carolina had other plans for me. The climbs kept coming, and my quads definitely felt it as I pushed on to Standing Indian Mountain, topping out at 5,000ft (1,524m). Not long after, I faced another steep climb up to Albert Mountain. At the summit, a 55ft (17m) steel fire tower, which replaced an earlier log lookout cabin, stood proudly against the sky. From its height, it offered incredible panoramic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Little Tennessee River valley below.  

Back on the trail, I slowed down and took time to appreciate the flora around me, such as the Galax, a low-growing evergreen plant unique to the Appalachian Mountains. Its heart-shaped leaves and spike-like white flowers bloom from late spring to early summer. In autumn, the leaves turn a beautiful reddish-brown. Fun fact: There's a city in Virginia named after this plant.

As I cross US Hwy 64, a little further along is a tall waterfall by the side of the road. One of a few along this very picturesque drive. I ducked back into the tunnel of greenery and kept going until I reached Wayah Bald, which comes from the Cherokee word for wolf, referring to the red wolves that once roamed the area. The wolves were eradicated in the 19th century, but there are plans to bring them back to parts of the state.

Wayah Bald is an open area devoid of trees, with a stone lookout tower offering panoramic views as far as the Great Smoky Mountains. Built in 1937 as living quarters for wildfire spotters, the tower was dedicated to John B. Byrne, who, at 33, became the youngest National Forest Supervisor. A WWI veteran, John threw himself into his work with energy and enthusiasm, even as his health declined due to exposure to poisonous gas during the war.

A lovely spot to enjoy the landscape, I stopped for a rest and kept a lookout for bald eagles while I listened to the rhythmic tapping of the yellow-bellied sapsucker pecking away at the tree trunk.