About half a mile into my descent from Blood Mountain, I come across a narrow, rocky trail known as the Brandenburg Steps. The steps are uneven and zig-zag down, with huge boulders flanking either side, making it feel more like a scramble than a hike. My trusty trekking poles are my only support as I make my way down, the weight of my packed bag pushing me closer to the ground with every step. The poles help stabilise me and ease the strain on my knees.
After tackling a few switchbacks, I finally enter Neels Gap. The local store is a welcome sight, offering the chance to resupply, rest briefly, and take in the views. Outside the store, there's a viewing platform, but the thick vegetation ahead makes it feel less like a forest and more like a dense tropical jungle.
Next up is Cowrock Mountain, a rocky outcrop with stunning southern views over Raven Cliff Wilderness and the surrounding peaks. I'm crossing the halfway point of my Georgia segment, and while it's still a long way to go, I feel a small sense of accomplishment. Breaking the entire trail down into smaller chunks makes it feel more manageable and less overwhelming.
I pass by the popular shelter at Low Gap and start my ascent up Blue Mountain. I follow the ridge, passing the Chattahoochee Gap, where a small spring 200 yards off the trail marks the headwaters of the Chattahoochee River, which provides drinking water for Atlanta. I take a moment to fill my water bottles and filter for safety.
The trail then takes me on a sharp descent from Blue Mountain into Unicoi Gap, followed by another climb up Rocky Mountain. I descend into Indian Grave Gap, cross a road, and enter a wooded tunnel leading me to another road crossing. From there, the trail climbs again, following a picturesque ridgeline up to Tray Mountain, the second-highest peak in Georgia along the AT. I pass by a campsite that once belonged to a 19th-century cheese factory. The trail drops quickly before heading to the Tray Mountain shelter, the highest shelter in Georgia. Built in 1971 with a nearby privy, I bundle in with fellow hikers for the night.
After unpacking, I pull out my stove and prepare some dehydrated beef stroganoff. I add water, boil it for a couple of minutes, then stir in the powdered sauce mix and let it sit for 10 minutes for the flavours to come together. With my calories replenished, I clean up and store my food safely in a bear canister to keep it away from curious bears and nocturnal critters. Tucking into my sleeping bag, I think of the 19mi (30km) ahead before I reach the North Carolina border and cross the first state off my list. I block out the sounds of nocturnal creatures and drift off to sleep, ready for another day on the trail.
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