Angel's Rest, Appalachian Trail

No sooner had I left Damascus than the trail began its first ascent, just long enough to get my heart pumping, before dropping into a valley. And so began the rhythm of the hike, a constant rise and fall through the rugged terrain leading toward the rolling meadows of Grayson Highlands, famous for the wild ponies that roam freely across the open landscape. 

I had heard about them before, but nothing prepared me for the moment I spotted my first one. Cresting a hill, I looked up and saw a small group grazing near the trail—their thick, shaggy coats ruffled by the wind, tails flicking lazily as they moved through the tall grass. They looked completely at ease, unbothered by my presence. One of them, a chestnut with a pale, windswept mane, lifted its head and regarded me with mild curiousity before returning to munching on tufts of grass. I watched them respectfully from a distance, then pressed on with my plans. 

Beyond the open highlands, the trail transitioned into dense woodlands as I approached Mount Rogers, Virginia's highest peak. Though the AT skirts around it rather than summiting, the change in atmosphere was undeniable. The thick canopy overhead gave the area a northern feel as if I had wandered into the upper reaches of the Appalachians rather than the southern stretch. What makes this area unique is its elevation. At over 5,700ft (1,737m), Mount Rogers harbours one of the few remaining spruce-fir forests in the region, a relic from the last Ice Age. More common in the northeastern U.S. or Canada, these high-altitude trees persist here as an isolated ecosystem, a stark contrast to the sun-drenched meadows below.

Further along, the Partnership Shelter offered a rare luxury—an actual shower. For long-distance hikers, such a thing is almost mythical. I wasn't about to pass up the chance to rinse off days of sweat and trail dust. The water was cold but refreshing, and after a quick rinse, I felt rejuvenated and ready to push on with a bit more energy.

Nearer to Pearisburg, the trail passed within sight of Burke's Garden, a remote valley often called "God's Thumbprint" due to its near-perfect bowl shape. This unusual formation was created through karst erosion. Millions of years ago, the limestone beneath the surface dissolved, causing the land to collapse inward and form a massive depression. Now, it appears as a vast, green basin encircled by mountain ridges. From my vantage point, I could see its patchwork of fields stretching across the valley floor. The thought of veering off the trail to explore it was tempting, but I knew better. I had many more miles to cover, and detours, however beautiful, would have to wait for another time.

The final challenge was reaching Angel's Rest. By this stage, my legs were already weary, and the steady, unrelenting ascent made sure to drain whatever energy I had left. I pushed on, one step at a time, lost in my thoughts. Then, the trees thinned out, and the views opened up, revealing the New River winding through the valley below, Pearisburg nestled in its curve. I dropped my pack and sat down to catch my breath and admire the scenery.