Sanko Irani Shrine, Nakasendo

Located in the centre of the Nobi Plain was the infamous post-town of Mieji-juku (#55), now Mizuho. During the Edo period it was subject to constant flooding causing travellers much angst. The den of gamblers, thieves and numerous saloons gave Mieji a terrible reputation.

The next post-town, Godo-Juku (#54) was a minor town with only a handful of inns. It was located near Nagara River and known for cormorant fishing, a fishing technique where trained cormorants (birds) were used to catch fish in rivers. The fishing masters on the Nagara River are the only ones listed as the Imperial Fishermen of the Household Agency, a government agency that takes care of state matters for the Imperial Family.

Whilst tourism and trade increased in Godo, unfortunately the town didn’t benefit from it and with a new bridge installed further downstream, trade was taken away from the town. Very little remains as a reminder of its past.

Crossing the bridge, I left the Mino plains behind and in the distance to my left, I saw Gifu Castle, sitting precariously on top of the hill as I made my way into Kano-juku (#53) – together with Godo, Kano is now part of Gifu city. For a time, Kano was the local centre of activity and one of three places that served as both a castle-town and post-town. Kano’s road had numerous sharp turns - resembling the letter “M” – for defensive purposes preventing the enemy from seeing the way ahead. Today, Kano is a well preserved old town, as the local government moved back to Gifu after the Edo period ended.

A few miles further, I arrived in Unuma-juku (#52), now Kakamigahara, a small post-town that never expanded because of its proximity to Inuyama castle-town across the banks of Kiso River. Cormorant fishing can be observed from the traditional inns and restaurants located near the river. Kiso River is what gives Nakasendo the alternative name of Kisokaido.