Takasaki, Nakasendo

After Usui Pass I made my way into the city of Annaka, which absorbed four former post-towns: Sakamoto-shuku (#17), Matsuida-shuku (#16), Annaka-shuku (#15) and Itahana-shuku (#14).

Matsuida was an important town as it handled the overflow of travellers when the traffic at Usui checkpoint was backed up with a queue. There used to be a side road in town that was less trafficked which was often used by those who wanted to bypass the checkpoint, making it a perfect smuggler’s lane.

Annaka used to be a castle town. The first castle was burnt down after five years and another was built by Tokugawa Ieyasu’s son. It later became the seat of the Itakuna clan. In 1855, one of the clan members asked his retainers to run up the hill to Usui Pass 18mi (28km) away. This instance was the inspiration for the Usui Pass Run 184, an annual half marathon racing event. The 184 is in reference to the number of turns taken as one ascends the course, gaining 400 metres in elevation. 

Less than a mile (800m) from Annaka is Itahana. This was the shortest distance between post-towns. The old route crossed the Usui River twice, as such a teahouse was established in-between the two crossings, aptly named Nakajuku ‘resting place in the middle’. Itahana had a lively nightlife and was a place to escape to, away from the watchful eyes of shogunate officials. 

Three miles (5km) further, I arrived in the city of Takasaki and its former post-towns Takasaki-shuku (#13), Kuragano-shuku (#12) and Shinmachi-shuku (#11). Takasaki is known for its Daruma doll, a hollow, round doll, usually painted red, depicting a bearded man. It is meant to symbolise good luck. The town is also known for the towering 138ft (42m) and 6,000 tonne statue of the Goddess of Mercy (Byakue Dai-Kannon). During the Edo period, Takasaki was a castle town and one of the largest towns on the Nakasendo. Given its size it had few inns, most likely because travellers did not want to stay close to the castle and the ruling daimyo.