Hermesvilla, Vienna

For 640 years, the Habsburg dynasty ruled Austria, profoundly shaping its history, culture, and identity. At the heart of their empire stood Vienna, a city inextricably tied to the Habsburg legacy. Over centuries, Vienna flourished and, by the 19th century, became one of Europe's largest and most influential cities. However, with the empire's dissolution at the end of World War I, Vienna transitioned into the capital of the newly formed Republic of Austria, carrying its imperial heritage into a new era.

Among the many rulers who shaped the Habsburg dynasty, Maria Theresa had the greatest impact, issuing sweeping reforms such as mandatory education for children, centralising administrative functions, and reorganising the military for better defence. She reigned for 40 years from 1740-1780. During her time on the throne, she not only asserted her position as empress and waged wars to secure her inheritance but also managed the vast empire while raising 16 children, including Marie Antoinette, the ill-fated queen of France.

The longest reign among the Habsburgs was held by Franz Joseph I. Ruling for an impressive 68 years from 1848-1916; he faced many upheavals and tragedies, including WW1 and Austria’s transformation to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. His wife, Empress Elisabeth, affectionately known as Sisi, was admired for her beauty and free-spirited nature but faced a strained relationship with the court and the tragic loss of her only son. 

Unhappy in Vienna, Sisi travelled widely. To encourage her to spend more time in the city, Franz Joseph commissioned the construction of a private retreat in the Lainzer Tiergarten, a nature reserve and former imperial hunting ground located southwest of the city centre. Completed in 1886, the villa was gifted to Sisi, and for the next few years, they would spend each spring there. Sisi had a white marble statue of the Greek god Hermes, the Guardian, sculpted and placed in the garden, from which the villa takes its name—Hermesvilla.

The interiors of Hermesvilla feature murals by renowned artists such as Hans Makart and Gustav Klimt. Highly body-conscious, Sisi's private rooms include a dedicated gymnasium where she worked out rigorously every day. Her bedchamber was sumptuous, with a grand baroque bed from Maria Theresa's time, and the murals depicted motifs from Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream. A staircase leads to the ground floor, where the salon's ceiling showcases the restored painting The Spring by Gustav Klimt, his brother Ernst Klimt, and Franz Matsch.

This glimpse into the Habsburg legacy and the opulence of Hermesvilla offers a small insight into Vienna's deep heritage. As I journey through this timeless city, I look forward to peeling back its historical layers through cultural landmarks, where music, art, and architecture transcend time, all while embracing vibrant modernity.