Haugesund, Fjords of Norway

At 28mi² (73km²) in terms of area, Haugesund isn't particularly big for a Norwegian municipality, but it packs in many interesting sites and has a rich history, beginning with Avaldsnes. Located about 5mi (8km) south of Haugesund, Avaldsnes was the first royal seat of Norway. Established by King Harald Fairhair, he was the first king to unify Norway by merging several small kingdoms into one, ruling for nearly 60 years from 872 to 930. 

A statue of the king with long billowing hair and shield in hand was erected up on a hill in Haraldsgata (Harald's Street), a quiet residential neighbourhood in Haugesund. Legend says that Harald vowed not to cut or comb his hair until he became the sole ruler of a unified Norway. One story refers to him as Harald Lufa (Harald Matted-Hair), but once he succeeded as the King of Norway, his hair was combed out, showing its lushness, and subsequently renamed Harald Fairhair. 

Harald's statue overlooks the Karmsund Strait, highlighting Haugesund's historical significance. The Karmsund Strait was a safe and vital route along the Norwegian coast, making Haugesund an important maritime hub during the Viking Age. This route, known as Nordvegen or "The North Way", is a key part of the region's Viking heritage and is believed to be the origin of the name "Norway".

Continuing with Viking history, I checked out the Haraldshaugen National Monument, which is believed to be the burial site of Harald. Discovered last century, the burial mound was marked with a monument in 1872 to celebrate 1000 years since unification. The mound is topped with a granite obelisk containing four bronze panels depicting key moments in Harald's life and surrounded by 29 standing stones representing the old Norwegian counties. 

Heading further north of Haugesund to Kvalsvik Cove, I was intrigued by Jason deCaires Taylor's "The Rising Tide" artworks. Originally installed in London's Thames River, this piece features four horse-shaped sculptures with oil pumpjack heads, symbolising the impact of fossil fuels. In 2019, they were relocated to Kvalsvik Sculpture Park, where they are partially submerged in the cove's waters.

A notable and somewhat surprising feature in Haugesund is the statue of Marilyn Monroe. Unveiled in 1992, it celebrated a familial connection to the area. While that connection has since been reassessed, the statue remains a charming tribute to an iconic figure and a nod to a golden age of Hollywood. It was an unexpected and enjoyable sight that added a touch of glamour to Haugesund.

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