Parc Guell, Barcelona

Looking out my small aeroplane window, the first thing I set my sights on are the long sweeping beaches lining Barcelona’s shores. The sun is shining, the sea is glistening, the coastal airport sits near the centre, and I’m so ready to hit the ground and see what this city has to offer.

At first glance, Barcelona feels fresh and modern, a city of open promenades and playful architecture. The bustling streets are dotted with cafés and shops, street performers entertain passers-by, and life seems to unfold outdoors from morning until late into the night. But this lively, iconic city is a relatively recent version of itself. 

To understand Barcelona, I realise I need to step back in time, and the easiest way to do that is simply to walk its streets. As I move through the city, I sense the layers beneath my feet. Broad modern avenues lie over the remnants of an industrial powerhouse. Beneath those ran medieval lanes leading to one of the great trading ports of the Mediterranean. And deeper still are the 2,000-year-old imprints of Roman settlement, built upon Iberian roots that first shaped life along this coast.

Each era has left its mark, layering history as evidenced by fragments of Roman stone walls, columns, and foundations found in the Gothic Quarter. As the Romans fell, the Visigoths and Franks, both Germanic peoples, passed through, as did the Moors, albeit only briefly. By the Middle Ages, Barcelona had become a significant trading port and the capital of Catalonia, a distinct region with its own language and cultural identity rooted in Iberian, Roman, and Germanic traditions.

By the early 19th century, the region industrialised. Driven by the textile industry, Barcelona turned into a manufacturing centre. Cotton mills, factories and railways lined the coastline, where polluted water cut the city off from the sea. To stand on the beaches now, it is hard to fathom that these golden sandy shores and turquoise waters were once inaccessible and certainly unswimmable. 

Barcelona was drawn deeply into the turmoil of the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939). In support of the elected democratic government, the city became a target of heavy bombardment by the Nationalist opposition, resulting in decades of hardship during which cultural expression and regional identity were restricted.

Everything changed in the late 20th century. As democracy returned, Barcelona began to reimagine itself, but the 1992 Olympic Games were the true catalyst for transformation. Old factories and rail yards along the waterfront were cleared away. Sand was imported to create new beaches, breakwaters constructed, sewage systems modernised, and water quality closely monitored. The city reopened itself to the Mediterranean for the first time in generations.

As I made my way to Park Güell, I realised that, within this layered city, Antoni Gaudí has become synonymous with Barcelona. A renowned architect, he shaped much of the city’s character with his eye-catching buildings, featuring flowing curves, mosaics, and an explosion of colour.

Park Güell is one of his most playful creations. Perched on a hillside above the city, it was originally planned as a private garden estate. Eusebi Güell, a wealthy industrialist, commissioned the project to create a small, exclusive luxury community away from the crowded industrial city below. However, the idea never took off, and only two houses were ever built. Gaudí himself spent the latter part of his life living in one of them. After his death, the space was opened to the public.

I wander along winding stone paths, past odd-looking columns that seem to grow out of the hillside, surrounded by cacti and palm trees, and reach the famous mosaic terrace. Its long, serpentine bench of broken ceramic tiles is ideal for taking in the views. From here, I see the striking Sagrada Família with its tall spires, instantly recognisable, contrasted by the modern bullet-shaped glass tower of Torre Glòries. The bright blue line of the Mediterranean Sea marks the horizon, while the checkerboard streets of the Eixample neighbourhood sprawl in the foreground. Sitting down to take in this panoramic view, I ponder the adventure that lies ahead and the stories yet to unfold.