Keoladeo National Park, Golden Triangle

Before entering the city of Bharatpur, located to the west of the highway is the Keoladeo National Park, a bird sanctuary and UNESCO site. Extending over an area of 2,783ha, the park was established 250 years ago as a duck-hunting reserve until it was converted into a sanctuary in 1956. 

The Park is incredibly diverse with more than 370 bird species both permanent and migratory, 380 flora species and a variety of snakes, lizards, turtles and amphibians. Amongst its bird collection are a number of striking looking species such as: the Saurus crane with its vibrant red head and grey body; the Ruff, a small wading bird with a fabulously large collar of ornamental feathers; and the richly coloured Bee-eater, that can vary in colour combinations but interestingly most of them will have a certain amount of green in their plumage. Besides exploring the park on foot or on a bike, it also has the added service of rickshaws. The rickshaw pullers double as knowledgeable guides as the park’s management have trained them in bird spotting. 

Bharatpur was formerly the capital of the Bharatpur State, an old Hindu kingdom, that came into existence when the Jat people revolted against the Mughals in the late 17th century. They were crushed several times but when Aurangzeb died in 1707 and the Mughals were engaged in civil wars, the Jat took advantage of this opportunity to establish their own state by ousting the Rajput people from the area and capturing Agra. 

Located in the centre of Bharatpur, on an artificial island, is the 18th century Lohagarh Fort. Thick outer walls gave the fort impregnable defences against repeated attacks from British forces. Eight towers were inside the fort, each one containing a large cannon on wheels. Palaces and temples had a blend of Mughal and Rajput architectural influences. A quadrilateral garden sits inside a courtyard surrounded by stone buildings in soft salmon pink colours, with large scalloped archways and a veranda. Not much is written about this fort but its location was strategic and difficult to attack. 

Exiting through the southern gate, I made my way towards Dausa.

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