Lake Louise, Banff

It's a beautiful summer day. The conifers are still, their emerald-green foliage a stunning contrast to the blue sky and snow-capped mountains. I am nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies at the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse, north of Lake Louise, sipping hot tea and savouring a cheese platter and freshly baked bread.

The sun is shining, and the air is cool. The scent of the trees is invigorating, beckoning me to start my hike. As I inhale deeply, I close my eyes momentarily and feel the rays warming my face. All around me, the majestic peaks of the Rocky Mountains soar high, reaching for the stars.

What an incredible place to be. When British travel writer Douglas Sladen arrived on the new Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) passenger line in 1889, he couldn't help but be in awe of the Rocky Mountains and remark, "… you see that the wall was no mere illusion of distance, but that the whole range … is a castellated formation of an extraordinary beauty…". And a beauty it is, so much so that in 1984, four national parks were designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. This rugged landscape is the last stand of old-growth forests and untouched wilderness.

Banff National Park is one of the four UNESCO sites. Lake Louise and Banff are within its boundaries – my journey's starting and ending points. It was established in 1885 as Canada's first national park and recognised as the flagship park in the nation's park system.

Let me not stray too far and come back to the teahouse. This two-storey stone building, with a wraparound wooden verandah and deep-eaved pitched roof, is just off the trail with the same name. Tucked amongst the conifers, the teahouse was built in 1924 by CPR-employed Swiss guides to serve as a chalet for mountaineers. The Feuz family, of Swiss origin, operated the chalet until 1960. When CPR began to divest its properties and demolish its backcountry lodges, the teahouse was sold to the current owners. The teahouse is one of the few surviving buildings from that era, and it stands as a testament to the Swiss guides' role in developing the Canadian Alps.

Taking in the view of mounts Lefroy and Victoria and their glaciers once more, I leave the verandah on the upper floor and head to the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail to descend to Lake Louise's glassy turquoise waters. As the trail's name suggests, it refers to the six nearby glaciers.

Winding through dense forests, I enjoy the cool shade and serenity. At the same time, I know this is grizzly bear country, and an alert mind is just as necessary. Forging on, I reach a trail junction. Taking the lakeshore trail, it wasn't long before I came to the north end of Lake Louise. On the opposite side, hugging the shoreline, was the striking Swiss-inspired Chateau Lake Louise.

Initially built by CPR as a very basic log chalet in 1890, just as it drew more visitors to the area, the chalet burnt down. Losing no time, the lodge was swiftly rebuilt, and like any expanding development, it went through several growing pains and several different architectural styles. Come the Roaring Twenties and Chateau Lake Louise blossomed into the contemporary grand hotel I see today. Its most significant feature is the rows of elegant arched windows beautifully framing views of Lake Louise.

This was a splendid spot to have a break. As I looked out the window, I briefly imagined a cold winter's day, the lake frozen and the landscape blanketed in snow. For now, I will enjoy the glorious mix of floral colours in the gardens and the emerald-green lake.