Humayun's Tomb, Golden Triangle

Travelling south from the Red Fort, my travels took me to Raj Ghat, a memorial dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi who, in 1947 led a successful, non-violent campaign for India’s independence from British rule. Within the Raj Ghat area are several other memorials, including to Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister and Mahatma’s political heir, who fought for independence; Indira Gandhi, Nehru’s daughter and no relation to Mahatma, who was the first female prime minister of India and who was assassinated in 1984 by her own Sikh bodyguards, as retribution for the deaths of hundreds of Sikhs killed in an exchange of gunfire between Indian troops and Sikh extremists; and Rajiv Gandhi, Indira’s son and successor, who was also assassinated in 1991. Several other leaders have memorials dotted throughout the park. 

Diagonally from Raj Ghat are the remains of a 14th century fort built during the Delhi Sultanate, an Islamic empire that occupied large parts of India between 1206-1526 AD before being conquered by the Mughals. Within its grounds is the Jama Masjid, one of the largest and oldest mosques in India, reflecting Islamic and Hindu elements in its Tughlaq architecture. The mosque is still in use and every Thursday, large crowds gather to pray and write letters. It is believed that supernatural beings called jinns (genies) live in the fort who “descend from the Heavens” to “listen and help solve problems”.

Just north of the zoo are the remains of the Purana Qila, one of the oldest forts in Delhi. Archaeological excavations found traces dating back to ancient India, circa 250 BCE, however, the existing remains were built in the 16th century by the 2nd Mughal emperor Humayun and his intercessor Sher Shah, founder of the Sur Empire. The fort had several buildings but the only ones surviving are: a beautifully preserved red, white and slate mosque; a double-storeyed octagonal tower that was used as personal observatory; and a library by Humayun where he unfortunately tripped on his robe whilst descending from the second floor and tumbled to his death. 

South of the zoo is the Humayun Tomb Park, the emperor’s final resting place. Commissioned by his first wife, the grand building is believed to be the precursor to the Taj Mahal. A symmetric structure, it is the first example of a Persian garden tomb in India, where the tomb sits at the “intersection of four water channels flowing in cardinal directions” within a square garden that’s supposed to represent paradise. Built of red sandstone, it has a marble dome and is decorated with inlay work, geometric black and white marble carvings and six-pointed stars as cosmic symbols. The tomb houses the graves of his first and second wives, his great-grandson Dara Shikoh who was executed by his brother Aurangzeb following a bitter struggle for the throne, several succeeding emperors and over 100 Mughal family members. In 1993, the Park became a UNESCO site.