Descending from Calf Mountain near the southern end of Shenandoah National Park, I look forward to this section of my hike as I will traverse the entire length of this superb park. Established in 1935, Shenandoah was created to preserve the Blue Ridge Mountains and protect the stunning landscapes of the Appalachian Highlands while also offering a space for recreation. However, the park's creation didn't come without a cost. Hundreds of local families were displaced to make way for the land's protection, making this a difficult chapter in its history.
As I descend, the trail winds through lush forests, gradually leading me into the Blue Ridge Mountains, tracing the ridgeline that forms the backbone of the park. The trail is well-maintained, with occasional openings revealing views of Shenandoah Valley to the west and the Piedmont to the east.
As the miles add up in the park, I cross Skyline Drive several times. This road runs along the mountain's spine beside the AT. Built around the same time as the trail, its 105mi (169km) stretch features 75 overlooks, offering plenty of opportunities for drivers and hikers to take in the views. Its creation wasn't without controversy, as conservationists feared it would diminish the wilderness experience. Despite the opposition, Skyline Drive became a key feature of Shenandoah.
I arrived at Big Meadows, a vast open space where white-tailed deer grazed lazily in the golden light of late afternoon. Named for the white underside of their tails, they are adaptable creatures. They can thrive in forests, grasslands, and even urban areas. Watching them graze, I admired their reddish-brown coats, which would turn greyish-brown as the season changed. Their agility was clear as they bounded through the meadow, capable of running up to 30mph (48km/h) and easily jumping over obstacles.
The trail gradually climbed as I passed the rocky outcrop of Blackrock Summit. The terrain remained moderate, with shaded forest paths and occasional climbs. I knew I was walking through an area known for its high black bear population. Though I didn't see any early on, I stayed alert and let the small bell hanging on my pack, which I'd recently bought, make noise to avoid surprising one. Shenandoah has large areas of contiguous, high-quality forest habitat, which helps support the bear population that can reach as high as 1,000.
About 60% of the way in, I passed Hawksbill Mountain, the park's highest point, but I kept going to Thorofare Mountain Overlook, curious about its story. For years, there was an urban legend that you could see the Washington Monument 75mi (121km) away in Washington DC from here. No matter how hard I tried to see it, I couldn't, but in 2016, a visitor captured a photo of the monument way in the distance, unmistakable in its shape. He promptly sent it to the National Park Service (NPS), proving the myth true. Interestingly, clear air is a federal responsibility of the NPS, tasked with improving and preserving these distant views. It is said that on an exceptionally clear day, visibility from Shenandoah could stretch as far as 121mi (195km).
As I neared the northern end of Shenandoah, a scarlet tanager flitted through the trees, its bright red body and jet-black wings standing out against the green. I listened to its slightly raspy song and smiled, content to be finishing the length of Shenandoah.
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