Mamanuca Islands, Fiji

I board the boat leaving Nawaka harbour in the early morning. I feel the cool morning air on my skin, and as the boat leaves the harbour, the ocean wind in my hair. We leave Viti Levu behind and enter the open sea, which begins to sparkle as the sun climbs the sky.

We’re heading for the Mamanuca Islands, some of the most popular tourist spots on the Fijian archipelago. More specifically, we’re going to the romantically named Castaway Island, one of the best places on the islands to don scuba gear and go shark-spotting.

This is an activity I won’t tell my mum about when I get home. Not necessarily because the sharks are dangerous (they aren’t), but because of the (in my opinion) undeservedly bad reputation these cartilaginous fish have. Sharks are, of course, famous for their rows of sharp teeth, their dead eyes, and their ability to sense a drop of blood ten miles away diluted a million, million times in the seawater. But other than that, I think they can be quite sweet.

As we descend into the coral reef, my pro-shark opinions are really put to the test. There are quite literally hundreds of them. The two main species of shark I can see, swirling, hunting in the briny depths, are the black and the white-tipped reef sharks. And just as their tips are opposite colours, so are their temperaments.

Black-tipped reef sharks are shy and introverted. As we swim towards one, it side-eyes us suspiciously and flits away. The white-tipped sharks are a completely different story. I have three circling me almost immediately, bumping me with their noses and nibbling my diving suit. They're curious, they seem somewhat friendly, but as they reach sizes of almost 6.5ft (2m) long, they're also more than a little intimidating. Our guide shows us how to gently nudge them away, and they don’t seem too offended as I push them back. Their curiosity satisfied, they move on to other sharky concerns.

Next, we swim through a garden of giant clams, leaving the reef behind to find deeper waters. These giant clams live up to their name, each one growing up to 4ft (1.2m) in length and weighing an incredible 440lb (200kg). They have an iridescent shine, created by the symbiotic algae that live protected in their shells and that photosynthesise for them, making up about 90% of their food. 

Giant clams have an important place in Fijian mythology. It is said that when the founder of the Fijian people, Chief Lutunasobasoba (great name), led his great armada to the islands, he had with him treasure from the court of King Solomon. Among that treasure was the Box of Blessings, the Katonimana. As Lutunasobasoba’s canoe passed through the straits of Mamanuca-Likuliku, it got caught on a rock, and the Box of Blessings fell into the deep blue sea. 

The great box sank deeper and deeper, burrowing itself in the sand. As the years passed, two huge clams, far bigger even than the giants I’m swimming past right now, settled nearby to guard it. They still stand as the box’s guardians, ensuring that only the worthy can enjoy its blessings. So far, no one has passed the clams’ test, and none have enjoyed the blessing of the Katonimana.

I swim down between the clams and see if I can see anything. Unfortunately, King Solomon’s treasure doesn’t reveal itself. I suppose I just haven’t been judged worthy.