Fagaras Mountain, Transylvania

One of Romania’s most striking features is the Carpathian Mountains. Dominating over 60% of its territory, the Carpathians arcs from the north of the country to the east, then sharply curve in a south-westerly direction. The birth of the Carpathians was about 100 million years ago when the African and European tectonic plates collided, pushing the rocks upwards.

This 932mi (1,500km) mountain range crosses seven countries and it is the third-longest in Europe. The Carpathians are rich in biodiversity largely due to its remoteness and limited human intervention, allowing plants to thrive and wildlife to roam. Many natural areas in Romania are protected by law through the establishment of national parks and nature reserves.

The Carpathians are divided into three sections, of which the Southern Carpathians, also referred to as the Transylvanian Alps, are part of this journey. Home to brown bears, wolves and lynxes, the Southern Carpathians have the largest area of unfragmented old-growth forests in Europe. It is the second highest mountain range group in the Carpathians with Moldoveanu Peak as its highest followed by Negoiu Peak, both located in the Făgăraş Mountains.

Located in the heart of Romania, the Făgăraş Mountains have an east to west direction with a ridgeline approximately 50mi (80km) long. It contains a great number of peaks (nearly 40 above 7,874ft / 2,400m), glacial valleys, cirque lakes, and moraines. The mountain’s forested areas include deciduous trees, conifers, dwarf pine and juniper. The alpine zone, which is above 6,561ft (2,000m) is mostly grasslands, making it perfect for hiking expeditions with expansive views above the treelines.

With hiking in mind, I veered off the main road near the village of Sâmbăta de Jos in a southwest direction, passing by farmland and other villages until I reached the foothills of the mountains. Ascending along a trail I followed the ridgeline on rocky and wild terrain. Small wildflowers in yellow, white and purple peaked through the ruggedness. After taking in the stunning views, I hiked down to Podragu Lake, a glacial lake in the Podragu Valley.

Enjoying the landscape, I trekked to Fereastra Zmeilor, translated as Kite Window, a small, arched, rock formation with views of the various nearby ridges. The ‘Dragon’s Window’ mountain cabin is nearby to take refuge if needed but I pressed on to the end of the trail and joined with the Transfăgăraşan Road, a dizzying hairpin bending road that cuts through the Făgăraş Mountains from north to south.

Famished, I am in search of food once again and this time I am dreaming of mititei, grilled sausages without their casing. There are variations to this, but my favourite is made of a mix of ground beef and lamb with minced garlic, a little black pepper, cumin, and bicarb soda which gives the sausage a bit of a zing. Rolled into small cylindrical shapes, the sausage is grilled on an open fire and served with mustard or a mixture of finely chopped garlic and water that gives the mititei some extra zing. It may be accompanied by French fries or with fresh bread, but I prefer it on its own because the flavour is so divine, I don’t want any peripheral distractions. As they say in Romanian, poftă bună, have a good appetite.