Battle of Sekigahara, Nakasendo

The next three post-towns, Banba-juku (#62), Samegai-juku (#61) and Kashiwabara-juku (#60) merged into present-day Maibara. 

Banba was a resting point for travelling merchants. Located in a valley, sometime in 1611 a cutting through the hills opened up access to the port on Lake Biwa. It helped travellers who could afford it to complete their journey with a lake crossing, reducing their travel time by two days. 

Since the 10th century, Samegai has been renowned for its clean spring waters. By the Edo period the spring was used for goods transportation and the banks were lined with warehouses. Today, the canal is a calm and serene spot. During May to August, the surface of the water blooms with small white flowers referred to as water buttercups, whilst beneath it thrives with freshwater fish called hariyo, a type of stickleback species.

Kashiwabara is one of the oldest post-towns having been in service since the 11th century. It also had the longest street at over one mile (1.6km) lined with houses on both sides. Many buildings from the 18th-19th century survive but only a handful have been restored. The Kameya pharmacy has been in operation since 1616 AD and inside the store is a statue of Kintaro, a child folk hero with superhuman strength. It is customary to put up a Kintaro doll on Boy’s Day in the hope that boys will become brave and strong. 

As I wandered through the post-towns of Imasu-juku (#59) and Sekigahara-juku (#58), both merged into modern-day Sekigahara, I progressed towards the famous battlefield that ended the Sengoku Period and gave rise to the Tokugawa shogunate and the start of the Edo Period. 

The Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 AD was fought between the Western army led by Ishida Mitsunari and the Eastern army led by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Regarded as the most important battle in Japan’s feudal history, it lasted a mere 6.5 hours. Beginning early in the morning, the Western army took position on high ground west of the village whilst the Eastern army was approaching from the east. 

A heavy fog delayed the battle but as it lifted Ii Naomasa and his troops (Eastern army) –  known as The Red Devils because of the blood red suit of armour they wore in battle – joined by Masanori’s advance guard, charged the Western army through the centre and the left flank. Although Masanori made progress, he later became exposed and Naomasa was shot by a long gun. Both had to stop further pursuit. 

During this time a Western army high ranking officer, Hideaki, who had secretly taken a bribe from Ieyasu defected to the East army. Along with 15,000 men, Hideaki attacked the Western army. Consequently, four more Western army units defected. 

Those left on the Western side fell back, unable to hold their positions anymore, leaving Mitsunari completely exposed. By lunchtime, Mitsunari fled, but he didn’t get far as he was caught by villagers and later beheaded in Kyoto. 

With the fall of the Western army, Tokugawa Ieyasu became the first shogun, founding a dynasty that ruled for 250 years.