Hikone, Nakasendo

Current day Hikone is a major city that includes two former post-towns, Takamiya-juku (#64) and Toriimoto-juku (#63). The area was a strategic point for protecting the capital from attack. Following shogun Tokugawa’s victory at the Battle of Sekigahara (next postcard), he made his most trusted adviser and capable general, Ii Naomasa, daimyo of the Hikone Domain and with that Ii Naomasa was given Sawayama Castle. Naomasa disliked the castle because it had been the home of his enemy and decided to demolish it and use it for parts to build Hikone Castle. Originally the Hikone Castle was on the shores of Lake Biwa but due to land reclamation the castle’s location is now inland about three-quarters of a mile (1km). 

Hikone Castle isn’t particularly large when compared to others throughout Japan, but it is one of the few original castles that were spared when the feudal era was abolished, and it was left largely intact. Naomasa began construction of the castle in 1602 but after his death due to injuries sustained in battle, it was fully completed by his son in 1622. The castle remained in the family until 1944 when it was donated to the city of Hikone. Fortunately for the city and the castle, in 1945 the area was scheduled for an air raid but the war ended on the same day at noon and the bombing was not conducted. 

Painted in black and white like most Japanese castles, it was constructed out of wood, stone, plaster, and tile. It is surrounded by a double moat and the inner enclosures are divided into three sections, each one accessed by a bridge over a dry moat. In the 20th century, the inner Palace was fully rebuilt and the grounds were planted with over 1,000 Yoshino cherry trees, a visual feast when blooming in spring. 

Takamiya-juku was established in the 7th century, and it was the first town to be granted official status as a post-town. In the centre of town is a massive 36ft (11m) by 29ft (9m) wide Torii Gate with a large stone lantern. 

Toriimoto-juku was a market town that used to have two teahouses up on a hilltop. With commanding views of Lake Biwa and Mount Hira in the distance, it would have been an amazing resting point. Today only the foundations remain with limited glimpses of the lake.