Echigawa, Nakasendo

Leaving Omihachiman, for the next 6mi (10km) I pass by rice fields and as I reach Goka, I pass some old textile factories. The area between Goka and Hikone was well known for cotton and flax production during the Edo period with many of the wealthy merchants living around Goka. Building large mansions, those that survived are now open to visitors to explore.   Southwest of Goka are the ruins of the 16th century Azuchi Castle. When the castle was built, it was considered revolutionary in terms of architecture. Most castles were built for defensive purposes, but Azuchi was meant to be a large mansion. It had a 7-storey keep with the upper floor being octagonal. Where the castles were typically painted white and black, Azuchi was colourfully decorated with tigers and dragons. Commissioned by shogun Oda Nobunaga, the first Great Unifier of Japan, the castle was built in 1579 AD. Following Nobunaga’s assassination, the castle and all its glorious decorations were demolished three years later. Reconstructions of the octagonal room and the top floor are on display in a museum near the ruins along with a model of the castle. 

I travelled through Echigawa-juku (#65), now part of Aisho city, which was named after the river running through it. Villagers and travellers had to walk through the river to cross it, until a local businessman built the Miyuki Bridge in 1831. A signpost used to stand beside the bridge indicating that crossing was free of charge – paying to cross a bridge was customary practice. 

Today Echigawa is known for its temari, a decorative handball made from old kimonos and scraps of silk that became popular during the Edo period. Temari balls were traditionally gifted to children on New Year’s Day but have now been elevated to a work of art due to their many beautiful and intricate patterns. Sometimes a hand strap and tassel were added to the ball to turn into an accessory for a kimono. 

One of Echigawa’s longest running businesses is Takeheiro, an inn and restaurant that has been operating continuously since 1785 AD. Emperor Meiji, who ended the Tokugawa shogunate, is said to have rested here during his reign. It looks like a great place to have a warm miso soup and try one of their beef shabu-shabu, a hotpot dish of thinly sliced meat and vegetables boiled in water and served with dipping sauce.